U.S. Moves To Halt AB InBev's Purchase Of Grupo Modelo

A $20.1 billion merger of beer conglomerates is now delayed, after the U.S. Justice Department sued to stop Anheuser-Busch InBev's acquisition of Mexico's dominant brewer, Grupo Modelo, Thursday. The agency's antitrust division says the two corporations haven't done enough to protect consumers.

The deal would put Corona, Bud Light, Stella Artois, and other popular beers under the same corporate umbrella, ending the competition that Justice officials say has resulted in lower prices. The Mexican government approved the merger last November.

In its proposed form, the merger "would result in less competition and higher beer prices for American consumers," says Bill Baer, Assistant Attorney General, of the Antitrust Division. "If ABI fully owned and controlled Modelo, ABI would be able to increase beer prices to American consumers. This lawsuit seeks to prevent ABI from eliminating Modelo as an important competitive force in the beer industry."

Citing the Justice Department's complaint, Bloomberg News reports that Modelo's and AB InBev's pricing strategies are diametrically opposed, with Modelo consistently providing pressure for lower prices, in contrast with "ABI's well-established practice of leading prices upward."

Reacting to the suit, AB InBev called the U.S. move "inconsistent with the law, the facts and the reality of the market place." The company promised "to vigorously contest the DOJ's action in federal court."

The company also said that the merger, which would give AB InBev the remaining portion of Grupo Modelo that it doesn't control, will now be delayed until after the first quarter of 2013.

Last October, SAB Miller's Coors Light supplanted Budweiser as the No. 2 beer in the U.S. But SAB Miller produces less than half the amount of beer that a combined AB InBev-Grupo Modelo would, according to Bloomberg.

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Oh, Baby: Squeezable Snacks Might Be Tough On The Teeth

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Squeeze me with caution.

Squeeze me with caution.

Those squeeze pouches full of organic pureed food in clever combos like plum, berry and barley have become a lifesaver for busy parents.

The colorful foil packets with the built-in feeding tips have only been on the market about five years. They cost about twice as much as the average prepared baby food in jars nearly $2 a pop but many people say they beat the old-fashioned stuff by a spoon, because they don't require refrigeration or heating or even a utensil. And they appeal to kids who would rather run around than stop and eat. (We've even witnessed older kids snag their younger siblings' fun-to-squeeze snacks.)

These assets make them popular at playgrounds, parks and with car seat jockeys everywhere, but is there a downside to all that slurping?

Actually, there might be a couple of downsides for developing teeth and mouths, but they may not be any worse in some ways than what lots of toddlers already do: suck on sippy cups full of milk or juice all day.

"The constant exposure of sugar on their teeth is detrimental," says Paul Casamassimo, the oral health research and policy center director at the American Academy of Pediatric Dentists. "My concern would be if the child walks around with this little pouch, then they might be doing the same thing," he says.

In fact, the academy recommends ditching the sippy cup and going straight from bottle to cup between 12 and 15 months because of the potential risk of tooth decay. Casamassimo calls them "baby bottle methadone."

Carbohydrates in all foods are used by bacteria to produce acid, and the acid eats away at the enamel of the teeth, creating the potential for cavities a growing problem among all children, he says.

And the pouch food, because of its consistency, may be particularly tough on teeth if it's allowed to sit there for long periods. "We know that tends to stick on teeth and prolong the opportunity for the bacteria to build," he says.

Brushing kids' teeth twice a day and making them rinse with water after eating the pouch foods or drinking juice can help, Cassamassimo says.

But what about potential injuries to children if the plastic feeding tip should jam into their teeth or gums while they're running around?

At this point, the pouch may be too new to show up in injury reports, Casamassimo says.

A recent nationwide survey shows that feeding products with similar shapes and targeted at the same age group can be dangerous. Between 1991 and 2010, more than 45,000 kids under age 3 ended up in the emergency room after injuring themselves with a bottle, pacifier or sippy cup. Most of the time, they were running while holding the product, according to the report from the Nationwide Children's Hospital in Columbus, Ohio (where Casamassimo heads the dental department).

"A lot of parents baby-proof their house but don't ever think about the possibility of an injury related to these products," Sarah Keim, lead author of the study and a researcher at the hospital, told USA Today this summer.

Theoretical risks aside, food pouches are convenient, nutritious (spinach-pear-pea puree, anyone?) and a booming business.

Since Plum Organics of Emeryville, Calif., introduced the pouches back in 2008, lots of other competitors have sprouted up, including big names in baby food, like Gerber. "Plum Organics conservatively estimates that its sales of pouches for babies, toddlers and children will be $53 million in 2012, up from around $4,800 when it put out its first pouches in 2008," according to The New York Times.

Sangita Forth, vice president of brand marketing at Plum Organics, tells The Times that she loves giving her 3-year-old daughter and 5-year-old son the pouches as snacks. But when she substitutes a meal, she has "mixed feelings," she tells the paper:

"Is it the ideal scenario? No. But as a mom, I know at least I'm giving them a healthy alternative. The mind-set now isn't that you have to be the perfect mom, but that you're doing the best you can."

Nutritionally, they beat the drive-thru option on the way to soccer practice. But as the dentist says, remember the toothbrush. Or for older kids, try xylitol-sweetened gum.

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Future Farms Of America Might Not Include Much Family

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Honey, what if the kids don't want it?

Honey, what if the kids don't want it?

It may sound like a line from The Godfather, but some agricultural specialists advise that farming isn't personal; it's business. And family farms need to think and act more like a business to survive in a competitive world, says Bernie Erven, professor emeritus in the department of agricultural economics at Ohio State University.

Last week, Erven spoke to farmers at the Growing Michigan Agriculture Conference about how to improve their practices to recruit, hire and keep the best employees by using modern methods, like social media.

But the message may be a tough sell. Family farms are an iconic American institution, and they make up nearly 96 percent of farms in America, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. And it's hard for some folks to hear that the best hire might not be your sister's kid who needs a summer job baling hay.

"If you hire a family member who isn't qualified, who doesn't fit the position, and maybe doesn't even want the position, then it's ... unlikely the person would succeed," Erven says. "Thus [it's] not helping the business and not helping the family."

If family farms don't approach hiring in a professional way, there are some uncertainties for both the farm and its employees, he says. "[Will] they treat adding employees as a family matter or is it a business decision?" he says.

According to the 2007 USDA Census of Agriculture, U.S. farms spend a total of $21.9 billion per year employing 2.6 million hired workers. Streamlining and standardizing hiring processes on family farms could have a significant economic impact.

New outside hiring practices could even help farm families alleviate the expectations of both parents and children. "This argument that you owe it to your children to have a place for them in the farm business, I have trouble with that. Because the other side of that coin is that then your children owe it to you to stay home, even if they don't want to," Erven says.

Additionally, a diverse labor force can help boost the farm's main goal: efficient food production. For example, dairy workers who have experience working with different cattle breeds may bring fresh perspectives and new techniques additions that can improve farming practices, Erven tells The Salt.

But pushing the family out of family farms can have disadvantages, too, Jennifer Fahy, communications director at Farm Aid, says in an email. "The family farm is a place where kids grow up and learn responsibility and skills ... they're also learning values and traditions," she says.

Fahy says that the American farming workforce is aging and in desperate need of young farmers to carry on the tradition. "A major factor in young people being interested in becoming farmers is the exposure they receive on their family's farm," she says. "That process of farmers passing down their life's work and traditions to the next generations is so important to the fabric of our food production system and culture."

Farm managers might be able to find the most qualified employees outside of the family, but Fahy says that family tradition is also an important consideration. "There's something beyond experience and skills at work when a family farmer can involve the next generation," she says.

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Folding Empanadas Into Your Super Bowl Spread

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For chef and restauranteur Jose Garces, watching football on television as a boy also meant snacking on his mother's homemade empanadas.

For chef and restauranteur Jose Garces, watching football on television as a boy also meant snacking on his mother's homemade empanadas.

Say "Super Bowl" to Philadelphia chef and restaurateur Jose Garces, and he instantly recalls winter Sundays growing up in Chicago. "While my dad and two brothers and I were watching a Bears football game, empanadas would just appear in front of my lap," he tells All Things Considered host Melissa Block.

Every Latin American country boasts their own empanadas baked or fried pockets of dough stuffed with cheese, meat or some other filling. The empanadas Garces ate as a child reflected his family's Ecuadorian roots.

The chef has shared two empanada recipes with NPR: his mother's Empanadas de Viento, made with Queso Fresco, and his grandmother's Empanadas de Verde con Pollo, found below.

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Recipe: Empanadas de Verde con Pollo
(Green Plantain Empanadas with Braised Chicken)

Makes 12 empanadas

The plantains must be squeezed through a ricer twice to create a smooth dough and develop the starches. The small dough rounds can be refrigerated for a few hours if covered tightly with plastic wrap; same goes for the formed empanadas. But don't push the timing the dough will begin to dry out and crack after 3 hours. Any leftover chicken filling is excellent in tacos or on a salad.

Dough

2 Green plantains (about 1 pound)
Kosher salt

Chicken Filling

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
1/4 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, coarsely cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/4 pound boneless, skinless chicken breast, coarsely cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1/2 Spanish onion, diced small
1 tablespoon minced garlic (3 to 4 cloves)
1 teaspoon Spanish smoked sweet paprika
1 tablespoon achiote paste
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds, toasted and ground
1 cup chicken stock
1 small Yukon gold potato, peeled, diced small, and blanched
1/2 pound fresh English peas, shelled and blanched
1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro
2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley
2 scallions (white and green parts), minced

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 qts vegetable oil, for frying
Aji costeno, for serving

To peel the plantains, split the skins lengthwise with a sharp knife and soak in warm water until the skins are easily removed, about 30 minutes.

To make the dough, bring a large saucepan of lightly salted water to a boil and cook the plantains until they are soft, about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and allow the plantains to rest in the water until they are cool to the touch.

Pass the cooked plantains through a ricer into a bowl. Rice the plantains a second time. Knead the resulting dough until it is very smooth, about 5 minutes. Allow the dough to rest at room temperature, covered with a damp towel, for 1 hour before making the empanadas.

To make the filling, heat the butter and olive oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chicken, onion and garlic and cook until lightly browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add the paprika, achiote paste, tomato paste, and cumin and cook for 2 to 3 minutes more. Add the stock, potato, peas, cilantro, parsley and scallions and season to taste with salt and pepper. Let the mixture cool to room temperature. Lift out the chicken meat, shred it and mix it back into the filling.

To assemble the empanadas, divide the dough into a dozen 1-inch balls. Using a manual tortilla press, a rolling pin or the heel of your hand, press each dough ball into a circle about 6 inches in diameter. Mound 2 tablespoons of the filling in the center of each round and fold over to form a half-moon shape. Use a dinner fork to crimp the outer edge. Alternatively, use a plastic empanada press from a Latin market.

To cook the empanadas, heat the vegetable oil to 350 degrees in a stockpot, using a candy or deep-fry thermometer to monitor the temperature. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Fry the empanadas in batches until golden brown and crispy, 3 to 4 minutes each, turning once in the oil. Drain them on the baking sheet. Season to taste with salt before serving with aji.

Recipe from The Latin Road Home by Jose Garces. Copyright 2012 by Jose Garces. Excerpted by permission of Lake Isle Press.

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International Culinary Competition Gold Eludes Americans Again

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The plating of Team USA's Irish beef dish was based on Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater house.

The plating of Team USA's Irish beef dish was based on Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater house.

Americans may have perfected food television and exported our fast food tastes around the world, but we still haven't made it to the podium in the so-called "Olympics of Cooking." The prestigious Bocuse d'Or chef competition, held in Lyon, France on Tuesday and Wednesday, saw Team USA unable to break its dry streak, with a seventh place finish behind winners France, Denmark and Japan.

The competition is a two-day event that's part Top Chef with a dash of World Cup. Each team of two chefs has about six hours to prepare a meat dish and a fish dish that will wow judges with their taste, creativity and presentation.

This year the U.S. team got serious about winning and holed up for months in a nuclear bunker, prepping for their big moment. Richard Rosendale, head chef at the Greenbrier Resort in White Sulfur Springs, W.V., battled it out in 2012 to win the honor of representing his country, along with commis, or assistant chef, Corey Siegel. For the last year, the two have been coached by luminaries including Thomas Keller, Daniel Boulud and Jerome Bocuse, son of the competition's namesake, Paul Bocuse.

This year's competition was streamed live online and drew a wide following on Twitter. Representatives from 24 countries competed in front of a rowdy audience. Each team had to make two dishes based on Irish beef, European blue lobster and turbot (a flatfish), ingredients chosen in advance by the judging panel.

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The 2013 American team included assistant chef Corey Siegel, coach Gavin Kaysen, and head chef Richard Rosendale.

The 2013 American team included assistant chef Corey Siegel, coach Gavin Kaysen, and head chef Richard Rosendale.

The U.S. has always been an underdog at the event and no American chef has ever placed higher than sixth, as Andrew Friedman chronicled in his 2011 book, Knives at Dawn. Fans this year were optimistic, though, chanting "USA-USA-USA" and waving signs. Fans from other countries rallied with marching bands and vuvuzelas.

Rosendale had reason for hope after the fanfare following the remarkable dish that won him a spot on the team. The platter was inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater house, located near his hometown in Pennsylvania. Rosendale created a similar platter for the meat portion in Lyon. American coach Gavin Kaysen says Rosendale tried to mimic the best parts about the iconic house.

"His plate has that inspiration and that flow, and he included foods they have there, like wild mushrooms," Kaysen says.

At the international competition, chefs are required to present a dish that's emblematic of their country. It's posed a problem for some U.S. competitors in the past since American cuisine can be hard to define.

Rosendale decided to stick with what he knew and focused on Appalachia. For the fish portion, he poached and glazed the turbot with au jus. Beside it, he added cider-poached butternut squash, lobster mousse with cider, Virginia ham, black truffles and a "wild mushroom explosion" that was wrapped in consume gel. His "Fallingwater" beef was a twist on pot roast with a hickory-grilled fillet that included asparagus, potato dumplings infused with beef broth and slow-roasted carrots.

His menu was crafted over the course of a year. Rosendale and Siegel also prepared themselves for the chaos of competition by piping in recorded sound of the crowd. They worked in a custom kitchen that was built inside a former Cold War bunker designed for Congress at the Greenbrier.

"We actually took chalk and chalked out on the floor basically exactly where everything was going to be," Rosendale told CBS.

There were also new challenges this year as the competition started to resemble a reality show. For the first time, chefs weren't allowed to bring all of their own ingredients; instead, they were given a short time to shop at a local French market for their side dishes. Teams also had to plate their fish on 14 separate dishes to mimic the actual restaurant environment.

Despite finishing off the medal stand, adviser Keller said he was happy with the team's performance.

"We increased three positions from the competition in 2011 so we are moving in the right direction," he said.

There's always 2015.

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Ukrainian Comfort Dish Chicken Kiev Claims French Parentage

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Chicken Kiev made by Viacheslav Gribov, head chef at Kiev's Hotel Dnipro, comes with a small bone sticking out one end. If done properly, some of the butter inside will remain unmelted.

Chicken Kiev made by Viacheslav Gribov, head chef at Kiev's Hotel Dnipro, comes with a small bone sticking out one end. If done properly, some of the butter inside will remain unmelted.

You'd be forgiven for thinking chicken Kiev got its start in the Ukrainian capital. After all, a hearty dish of chicken filled with butter, wrapped in bread crumbs, and deep fried is the perfect meal to withstand sub-zero temperatures and cold winds blowing across the Dnipro River.

Ukrainian chefs say they have the only authentic recipe for the dish, but they concede that chicken Kiev, despite its name, has a far more sophisticated provenance: It's French.

The French connection isn't as odd as it first appears. Viacheslav Gribov, head chef at Kiev's Hotel Dnipro, says that during the late 1840s, Russian royalty sent chefs to Paris to learn from the best. And they returned with a recipe for a dish they called Mikhailovska cutlet.

"The dish was made in Paris with veal," Gribov says, "but in Moscow, it was made with chicken. At that time, chicken was more expensive and considered more of a delicacy."

Chicken Kiev was served in posh dining rooms and later appeared on the menus of official dinners in the Soviet Union, but it needed American immigrants to make it popular.

In the years after World War II, chefs at white tablecloth restaurants, like the Russian Tea Room in New York, began putting the dish renamed chicken Kiev on menus to lure Russian and Ukrainian immigrants who had settled in that city in large numbers.

Back in Kiev, though, chicken Kiev wasn't common until visiting tourists began requesting it in the city's restaurants in the 1960s. "Chicken Kiev made Kiev famous," says Gribov.

Ukranian chefs like Gribov have strict rules for the dish and decry variations. They say neither the Russian version stuffed with cheese, nor the American and British recipe calling for garlic and parsley, are the real deal.

"This began as a dish for dignitaries meeting one another. You would never serve them garlic," he says. Gribov should know. He's been serving the dish since 1978 to some of the world's biggest political heavyweights, including Fidel Castro, Mikhail Gorbachev, and President Clinton.

But the authentic Kiev recipe, Gribov says, calls for only butter inside, and if done properly, a bit of butter remains unmelted when served. "We don't just learn how to make the dish; we also learn a special way of serving and cutting it to avoid butter splashing out," he says.

The Ukrainian version comes with a small bone sticking out that keeps the butter sealed inside. It resembles a conical corn dog and delivers the same satisfying fried, crunchy outside and soft center.

During the 1960s and 1970s, Kiev tourists made the dish popular, and locals quickly followed. But, like so many foods, chicken Kiev has fallen out of fashion. It's now a convenience item, relegated to some supermarkets and fast food restaurants in the city, and has all but disappeared from Ukrainian menus.

"I'm worried that very few chefs know how to make it," says Gribov. "Young chefs are not being trained how to make chicken Kiev. I'm thrilled every time someone orders it."

These days, he says, Kiev's urban dwellers want exotic, international cuisine. "People order lasagna, pizza. They want Mediterranean or Asian food. Many people have never left the country and want to experience something foreign through food."

Ironically, one of those foreign places is seeing a revival of the dish. In London, there's a yearning for the comfort foods of yesteryear, and chicken Kiev is back on West End menus, with new ingredients, such as truffles and a mozzarella filling.

Gribov may prefer authentic chicken Kiev, but adding a fresh twist or two may be the key to keeping the dish alive.

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To Maximize Weight Loss, Eat Early in The Day, Not Late

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Front loading your calories may help you lose weight.

Front loading your calories may help you lose weight.

You've heard the dieting advice to eat breakfast like a king, lunch like a prince, and dinner like a pauper? Well, there's mounting evidence that there's some truth to it.

A new study published in the International Journal of Obesity builds on previous studies that suggest it's best not to eat too many calories late in the day.

The Spanish study finds that dieters who ate their main meal before 3 p.m. lost significantly more weight than those who ate later in the day. This held true even though the early eaters were eating roughly the same number of calories during a five month weight-loss study as their night-owl counterparts.

The study included 420 overweight and obese volunteers who lived in the Mediterranean seaside town of Murcia, Spain. Their average age was 42, half were men, half women. Their mid-day meal constituted about 40 percent of their roughly 1,400 calories a day, on average, diet. Right, that's not a lot of calories. The average non-dieting American eats about 2,700 calories a day, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

On average, the early eaters in the Spanish study lost 22 pounds, compared to the late eaters who lost 17 pounds during the five month study.

Both the early eaters and late eaters had similar levels of physical activity and got similar amounts of sleep, so researchers ruled out these factors as possible explanations for the differences in weight loss.

"The study suggests that it's not just what we eat but when we eat is important," says study author Frank Scheer who directs the Medical Chronobiology Program at Brigham and Women's Hospital in Boston.

So what's at play here? Well Scheer says recent animal studies have shown that the timing of eating can have a powerful influence on weight regulation and metabolism. This new study, he says, is among the first to suggest it's also key in people.

"Only in recent years are we trying to study this and tease apart what the underlying mechanisms might be," says Scheer.

In the study, the people who ate late and didn't lose as much weight, also tended to skip breakfast or eat just a little in the morning.

And Scheer says that since eating seems to send a signal to our body clocks, it's possible that when people delay eating a big meal until late in the day, things get out of wack: The master clock in the brain gets out of sync with the mini clocks in the cells of the body that regulate metabolism.

"When the timing of meals do not match with the sleep-wake cycle well, there's a disconnect between the different clocks that we have in basically all the cells of our body," explains Scheer.

And with this disconnect, the complex systems that regulate weight don't work as well, he says.

Now not everyone is convinced by the findings of this study. Madeline Fernstrom of the University of Pittsburgh Medical Center says she's skeptical that the timing of meals can influence weight loss so significantly. The study shows an association between the timing of meals and weight loss, says Fernstrom. "It's not [proving] cause and effect."

Weight loss is complicated. But Fernstrom says as we learn more about the many factors that may influence weight regulation, it's important for dieters not to lose sight of the big picture.

"The greater importance is what you are eating," Fernstrom says. If you want to lose weight "you need to eat fewer calories and exercise more."

Which is, of course, something that you likely already know.

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Understanding The Brussels Sprout

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Get recipes for Brussels Leaf And Baby Spinach Saute, Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Balsamic Vinegar and Creamy Braised Brussels Sprouts.

"What are those?" I asked my mom, suspiciously eyeing the little cardboard tub with its cellophane cover. It held a heap of pale, miniature cabbages. "They're Brussels sprouts," she said. "They're supposed to be good for you," she added, sealing my doom.

At dinnertime, the mystery vegetable reappeared, steaming hot and greenish-yellow but otherwise unaltered. It gave off a sulfurous stench. I recoiled, but I knew my job. I took a bite.

Later, when my plate was clean except for the Brussels sprouts now cold and, if possible, more repulsive than before I was made to understand that they were now part of our routine, and I would have to learn to live with them. So I developed a strategy, which was to select the smallest piece I could and swallow it whole, as if it were a particularly large multivitamin, and I a Burmese python. Then I'd chase it with a swig of milk, which would effectively bury the fumes before I inhaled again.

We are living through a Brussels sprouts renaissance. Suddenly, whole fresh stalks of sprouts ... are appearing at your local supermarket. Brussels sprouts recipes accompanied by fervent conversion narratives festoon every greenmarket cookbook.

It's a miracle I made it to adulthood without anyone having to perform the Heimlich maneuver. When I became a parent, I resolved that no child of mine would ever suffer the same fate. But like my mom before me, I was seduced by the Brussels sprouts' impeccable nutritional profile. The New England winter is long, just as it is in Belgium, where the sprouts were first cultivated 800 years ago (hence the name). You cannot eat kale every night, though you can try. Brussels sprouts were available, not to mention attractively priced. And so Brussels sprouts we would have.

Fortunately, being a cookbook reviewer in the era of Michelle Obama and the First Garden, I had more resources than my mom had. And, we are living through a Brussels sprouts renaissance. Suddenly, whole fresh stalks of sprouts, looking like green light sabers covered in pompoms, are appearing at your local supermarket. Brussels sprouts recipes accompanied by fervent conversion narratives festoon every greenmarket cookbook.

About The Author

T. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for The Boston Globe, NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website Eat Your Books. She's the author of A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table. For more information, visit her blog, Cookbooks for Dinner.

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To unlock the brilliance of the Brussels sprout, cooks have had to overcome a booby trap hidden within the vegetable itself. After prolonged exposure to heat, cabbage (or brassica) family members start to stink of hydrogen sulfide, as heat-activated enzymes go to work on the sprouts' nutritious sulfur compounds, or glucosinolates.

Good things come in small packages, but so do glucosinolates. Because they are young and tender, Brussels sprouts contain more than their older cabbage cousins do. So cooking them is like raiding a spell-fortified Pharaonic tomb, or opening a bank vault protected by a time bomb. Once the heat is on, you have to work quickly and retain your presence of mind. If you do, a magnificent, nutritious payload can be yours for the taking.

There are a number of ways to accomplish this. If you have the patience and dexterity, you can separate the little leaves so you can saute them in a flash. Or you can julienne the sprouts with a knife and then saute them. You also can set the time bomb on pause by roasting. The dry heat of roasting slows down the transfer of heat just enough to unlock the natural nutty sweetness in halves or quarters of Brussels sprouts, without triggering the odoriferous reaction. Or you can caramelize the sprouts and braise them in cream, which decadently emphasizes their sweetness while masking any sulfur effusions.

Perhaps the worst way to cook Brussels sprouts is to Boil Till Dead, as if they were a lobster. This was the technique employed by my mother, an otherwise excellent cook. If you simply cannot stop yourself from boiling a brassica, you should strictly observe the seven-minute rule: never exceed seven minutes when immersing anything green in boiling water.

If things go well, you may hear a story like this: Somebody at my kids' lunchroom mentioned they hated Brussels sprouts. So said my 11-year-old, who has never had a boiled Brussels sprout in his life and knows nothing of my own haunted history. He paused, fork halfway to his mouth, and crinkled his brow. "Why would anyone not like Brussels sprouts?"

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Recipe: Brussels Leaf And Baby Spinach Saute

This terrific recipe adapted from The Sprouted Kitchen (10 Speed Press, 2012) by Sara Forte, helped convince me to include it in NPR's Best Cookbooks of 2012 list. You can get more leaves off the sprouts by coring the heart with the tip of a paring knife. And you don't need to discard the core. Just throw it in with everything else. It's delicious.

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Makes 4 servings

1 pound Brussels sprouts

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon white wine or champagne vinegar

1 tablespoon maple syrup

4 cups baby spinach

2 generous pinches sea salt

1/2 cup Marcona almonds

Working with one Brussels sprout at a time, peel each individual leaf, starting from the outside and working toward the middle. Continue to peel until you get to the tough core where it is just too tight to pull any more leaves. Discard the core and put the leaves in a big bowl. Repeat with the remaining Brussels sprouts.

In a large frying pan, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add all of the sprout leaves and saute for about 30 seconds. Add the vinegar and maple syrup, and toss to coat. Add the spinach to the pan and toss until it is just barely wilted. It is better just slightly underdone in this case, as it will continue to cook in its own heat.

Sprinkle with the salt and Marcona almonds, and serve immediately.

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Recipe: Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Balsamic Vinegar

Covering the sprouts during part of the roasting prevents them from shrinking and drying too fast, and the balsamic vinegar complements their natural sweetness.

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Makes 4 servings

1 pound Brussels sprouts, small to medium size

Olive oil

Salt

2 to 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 475 degrees and line a baking sheet with foil (this helps with the cleanup).

Trim the stalk end of the Brussels sprouts. Depending on their size, cut them into halves, thirds or quarters (for thirds, simply halve the sprout unequally, and then halve the larger piece again). Toss them thoroughly in a large bowl with enough olive oil to make them glisten, but not so much it pools in the bottom of the bowl. Salt to taste.

Dump the sprouts onto the baking sheet, spread or shake into a single layer, and cover tightly with another layer of aluminum foil. Roast 10 to 15 minutes (closer to 10 if they're about the size of an almond, closer to 15 if they're the size of a big olive). Remove the foil the sprouts should be green on the outside, yellow-green in the middle and just starting to turn tender.

Drizzle with the balsamic vinegar. Return to the oven and roast for 10 to 20 more minutes, checking in on them once or twice to stir and look for browning. When you see plenty of spots of golden-brown but none of the sprouts are completely brown, that's the time to pull them out.

Grind plenty of fresh pepper over the sprouts. Serve immediately.

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Recipe: Creamy Braised Brussels Sprouts

This recipe (adapted from All About Braising by Molly Stevens, Norton, 2004), while perhaps not the most photogenic (it yields a creamy beige-and-brown mass that has to be tasted to be believed), has made converts of many. I asked Stevens why she thought it was that the sprouts remained sweet, nutty and un-cabbagey despite the longer braise, and she posited a number of factors: the fat in the cream, the halving (or quartering), the initial browning. Whichever it is, they're irresistible.

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Makes 4 servings as a side dish

1 pound Brussels sprouts

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 cup heavy cream

Salt and pepper

1/2 lemon

With a paring knife, trim the base of each sprout. Cut the sprout in half lengthwise and remove any loose outer leaves. You can cut the halves into halves again if you want or just leave them.

Melt the butter in a large skillet that you can later cover. Brown the Brussels sprouts over medium-high heat for about 5 minutes.

Add the cream, some salt and pepper and stir.

Reduce heat until mixture is slowly simmering. You want some bubbles in the cream, but don't let it boil too rapidly.

Cover the pot and braise for about 30 minutes, or until sprouts are very tender. The cream should now be a pale brown color.

Remove the cover, add the lemon juice and stir. Cook for another 2 to 3 minutes and serve.

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In Japan, Food Can Be Almost Too Cute To Eat

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  Hannari Tofu is a character who shows up on a range of plush merchandise.

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  To-fu Oyako is a soybean-curd-inspired line of products, including bags, planners and pillows.

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  A kyaraben, or character bento, inspired by characters from the anime Yondemasuyo, Azazel-san.

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  Two of the heroes from the anime series Go! Anpanman. The head of Shokupanman (left) is made out of white bread. Anpanman (right) is named after a Japanese sweet roll stuffed with red bean paste.

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  Food imitates art imitating food: a pancake shaped to resemble Anpanman's sweet roll head.

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From an early age, Japanese kids are taught to "eat with your eyes," and this emphasis on the visual delights of food can be found in many aspects of Japan's vaunted culture of cute.

Take children's television, for example. Some of the most beloved cartoon characters in Japan are based on food items.

One favorite is Anpanman, or "Bread Man" a superhero whose head is made out of a sweet roll filled with red bean paste (yeah, we're a bit baffled, too). Anpanman spends most of his time running around, saving starving children by letting them take bites out of his oh-so-delicious head. His friends include Shokupanman, whose head is made from a piece of sliced white bread, and Currypanman, whose head is made from a piece of you guessed it curry-filled bread.

This obsession with cute food manifests itself in all sorts of ways. Take, for example, Hannari Tofu the cutest chunk of soybean curd you're likely to encounter. The character pops up on a range of plush merchandise, from stuffed animals to key holders.

Debra Samuels, a chef and author of My Japanese Table, used to live in Japan with her family. She says it didn't take her long to realize how tightly everyday life revolved around visuals, especially when it came to food.

After her young son started complaining that the peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwiches she was packing for him weren't "cute enough" for kindergarten, Samuels started embracing the Japanese food aesthetic.

She began carving apple wedges into the shapes of bunnies. She added "baloney bangs" to sandwiches with faces.

"The first thing you do when you look at something is to see whether you want to eat it or not. It's very important in Japanese culture," she tells All Things Considered host Audie Cornish. "Kids learn this from a very early age."

And from an early age, Japanese kids also get some pretty excellent school lunches, called kyushoku. Served to all first- through sixth-graders, these standardized meals serve a similar purpose as school uniforms. As Samuels explains, "Everybody gets the same lunch. There are kids that are traumatized because their lunches are not as cute as their neighbors.' "

These school lunches are locally grown and usually made from scratch. They're so yummy that, as The Washington Post reported earlier this week, some kids ask their parents to re-create the meals at home. And they're healthful, too, which has encouraged some parents to ring up schools for the recipes. It's hard to imagine the same thing happening in the U.S.

By the way, if you're curious about how school lunches compare around the world, check out this slide show from our friends at Shots. Eat your eyes out, folks!

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Why Chicken Wings Dominate Super Bowl Snack Time

Take a look at this remarkable graph is it the stock market? Home sales?

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Nope. Click on the blue box in the lower right-hand corner and you'll see that the blue line tracks the number of chicken wings that Americans bought at grocery stores over the last year. See that mighty surge of wing-buying in early February? Apparently, you just cannot have a Super Bowl party without chicken wings millions and millions of chicken wings.

"That bump has gotten bigger and bigger" over the years, says Bill Roenigk, chief economist at the National Chicken Council, which represents the chicken industry. And the industry is capitalizing on the craze with both higher prices and enough recipes for baked, fried, or caramelized versions to distract any kitchen referee.

Roenigk says the magical pairing of humongous athletes and itty-bitty chicken parts got its start with the rise of sports bars a few decades ago. Sports-watching demands cheap munchies, and wings were both convenient and cheap. "Ribs and pizza were the competition," says Roenigk. But ribs cost more money, and pizza well, pizza tends to lose its charm if it sits on a table for too long.

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Blame sports bars for the chicken wing boom, especially on Super Bowl Sunday.

Blame sports bars for the chicken wing boom, especially on Super Bowl Sunday.

Three years ago, right before Super Bowl XLV, the National Chicken Council realized that it had a social phenomenon on its hands and decided to promote it. The Council's mock-serious Wing Report is now an annual pre-game tradition.

According to the 2013 Wing Report, Americans will eat 1.23 billion wings next weekend. If laid out end to end, they would "stretch from Candlestick Park in San Francisco to M&T Bank Stadium in Baltimore 27 times."

In an odd twist, the once-cheap wing has become the most desirable and expensive part of the chicken. Per pound, chicken wings are now pricier than bone-in chicken breasts, perhaps inspiring this epic wing heist.

"People say, 'You ought to produce more wings,'" says Roemigk. This year's Wing Report lays out the crucial obstacle: "A chicken has two wings, and chicken companies are not able to produce wings without the rest of the chicken."

There's such a demand for wings, Roemigk says, that some restaurants actually are selling strips of chicken breast meat as "boneless wings."

A chicken's wing actually consists of three parts. Americans eat the first two segments known as the "drumette" and the "flat" but the wing tips, known as "flippers," are generally exported to Asia, especially China, where they are consumed with gusto. (Chicken feet go across the Pacific, too, in case you were wondering.)

But the almighty chicken wing may not hold the Lombardi trophy for long. Others are trying to claim a piece of this lucrative Super Bowl snack market for their own. Taco Bell, for instance, released an ad calling tacos a "game day tradition." The ad also laid a helmet-to-helmet hit on the idea of bringing veggies to a party ("Secretly, people kind of hate you for it") which aroused the ire of healthy-eating activists and convinced Taco Bell to pull the ad.

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Raw Beef Kibbeh Blamed In Salmonella Outbreak. Is Steak Tartare Next?

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A traditional steak tartare with egg, onion and capers.

A traditional steak tartare with egg, onion and capers.

The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention is amplifying recommendations it's made for years: Don't eat raw or undercooked ground beef. And the call may take on new significance in the wake of reports released last week about a multi-state outbreak of Salmonella in which nearly half the victims reported eating a raw ground beef dish at the same restaurant.

But raw meat seem to be making a bit of a comeback in the food world, thanks to renewed interest in raw food in general and the raw meat aficionados building off the paleo diet trend, so could steak tartare be next?

The U.S. Department of Agriculture says seven of the 16 people who were sickened reported eating kibbeh, a Middle Eastern dish made with Bulgar wheat, ground lamb or beef in this case, and spices, at the same restaurant before becoming ill back in December. There are traditionally both raw and cooked versions.

According to this USDA release, the meat was served at a restaurant in Macomb County, Mich., near Detroit.

No deaths have been reported, but more than half of those sickened have been hospitalized. The other illnesses were reported in Iowa, Illinois, Wisconsin and Arizona.

The restaurant acquired the meat from two retailers who have both recalled about 500 pounds of ground beef each. One is Jouni Meats,Inc., the other is Gab Halal Foods.

While many cultures keep traditions involving raw meat, it also seems to be moving more into the mainstream. Is it the manly appeal?

According to this article from the blog Honest Cooking, steak tartare is "raw food for the masculine eater." And there is the perception that it's safer and even healthier to eat meat that's underdone:

"It got almost extinguished when words like Salmonella, E.coli and Mad Cow disease became a part of the vocabulary, kick-starting the 'kill by overcooking'-religion in many kitchens."

And how does steak tartare taste? "The raw, soft and creamy beef is perfectly balanced by the sharp and pungent flavors from capers, mustard and onions and by the crisp fries," says writer Brian Lambaek.

But is eating raw meat worth it? CDC would say definitely not.

Illnesses from salmonella usually last four to seven days. Typical symptoms include fever and diarrhea, although the illness can be life-threatening to those with compromised immune systems, infants and the elderly.

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Sandwich Monday: The Reuben Egg Roll

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The Reuben Egg Roll

The Reuben Egg Roll

The Reuben has long suffered from two problems. Firstly, it often lacks the structural integrity to hold together as a sandwich. The second problem is that I am not constantly surrounded by a dozen of them.

The Reuben Egg Roll from Hackney's in Chicago solves the first problem, at least, stuffing corned beef, sauerkraut and swiss cheese in a crispy egg roll shell, Thousand Island on the side.

Ian: I feel like you meet this food, and you're like, "Wait, your name is Reuben?"

Mike: This makes me think we need more Chinese-Jewish fusion restaurants. I love PF Changsteins.

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In their natural habitat

In their natural habitat

Peter: As a mashup of Jewish and Chinese cuisine, this beats General Tso's Gefilte Fish.

Ian: Or the classic Egg Jew Young.

Peter: Or Rice Whine.

Eva: I'm too busy eating this to make your dumb jokes.

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Peter is skeptical.

Peter is skeptical.

Ian: Generations ago, they were writing great tales of half-man, half-horses, and lions with the wings of eagles. We're like, what if we put a sandwich in an egg roll?

Robert: I love that story in the Old Testament where the Israelites crossed over to the Land of Milk and MSG.

Mike: It's nice how the sauces reflect the two cultures ... you can choose either Sweet and Sour or Sour and Sour.

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Robert is moved.

Robert is moved.

Robert: Only problem is within an hour you're both hungry and feeling guilty about not calling your mother.

Ian: Robert's joke also comes from Hackney's.

[The verdict: as you might expect, delicious. We at Sandwich Monday value all multiculturalism, especially edible multiculturalism.]

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How Mountain Grass Makes The Cheese Stand Alone

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Cows graze in front of the Rosengarten mountain massif in northern Italy. Pasture grazing is practiced throughout the Alps.

Cows graze in front of the Rosengarten mountain massif in northern Italy. Pasture grazing is practiced throughout the Alps.

Herding cattle up the side of a mountain might seem like a lot of extra work, but for thousands of years, people have hauled their cows into the Alps to graze during the summer months. Why? It's all about great-tasting cheese.

In places like Italy, some traditional cheeses, like bra d'alpeggio or Formai de Mut dell'Alta Valle Brembana, can only be made with milk from mountainside-munching cows.

But in Italy, at least, the practice may be dying out. "Young people don't want to stay in the mountain because there are poor opportunities for work," so they often move to the city, says food chemist Giovanna Contarini of the Centro di Ricerca per le Produzioni Foraggere e Lattiero-Casearie in Lodi, Italy. If there's no one left in the mountains to raise the cows and make the cheese, she says, "we risk losing an important product."

Contarini and her colleagues have been working to save these mountain dairy products. And fans of the cheeses say there's more than just nostalgia involved. It's not easy to define the flavor, Contarini says, but aficionados insist the cheeses do taste better.

There's also evidence that mountain cheese might even be a little healthier, containing, for example, more omega-3 fatty acids than cheese made from the milk of cattle raised on the plains.

The differences are definitely subtle, but researchers have figured out how to tease apart some of them. Recently, Contarini and her colleagues in Lodi even showed how to distinguish between cheeses made from cows pastured on two different sides of a single mountain. Her study appears online in the latest Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry.

Where cows live changes what they eat and that difference is detectable in the cheese made from their milk, says Contarini.

"In the mountain areas, the cows are free to pasture," she says. They mostly eat a mix of fresh grasses and other vegetation. Cattle raised at lower elevations in Italy, in contrast, are kept in farms and eat a prepared feed that contains dried grasses and some fat and vitamins. "Consequently, the rumen digestion is different," she says.

The rumen is the first chamber in a cow's stomach, and it's full of microbes. What a cow eats helps determine what microbes rumble in its rumen, and those differences play out in the chemical composition of its milk. "So some constituents of milk, particularly the fat and the lipid soluble compounds, are different," Contarini says.

Milk from mountain-raised cows also contains chemical compounds called terpenes, which come from little flowers growing among the grass. "In the plains cows, you don't find any terpenes," she says. Scientists aren't sure how or if terpenes affect cheese flavor, but they do consider them a marker of mountain cheese.

In her recent experiment, Contarini's group took milk from cows living on two sides of a mountain in northern Italy. Both pastures were mostly covered in fescue and bent grass, but they received different amounts of sunshine, and from different directions. One pasture also had a bit more yarrow growing in it than the other.

Milk from cows raised in each pasture was used to make a couple dozen wheels of local Asiago cheese. When the scientists analyzed the cheeses, they found they differed, just slightly, in the amounts of some hydrocarbons and trans fatty acids.

That wasn't enough to affect flavor, but it helps to validate methods that may one day be used to authenticate cheese made from mountain-raised cows, Contarini says. And while that could be helpful for consumers looking for the real thing, it could also help to show that there is real added value in these local, artisan cheeses, she says, and worth the effort of driving herds of cattle up into the Alps.

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