Friday, August 31, 2012

Urbanization Puts Farms In Africa's Cities At Risk

An urban farmer waters his plants near Bamako, Mali, where the government has set aside nearly 250 acres for market gardens.

An urban farmer waters his plants near Bamako, Mali, where the government has set aside nearly 250 acres for market gardens.

An urban farmer waters his plants near Bamako, Mali, where the government has set aside nearly 250 acres for market gardens.

For many urbanites in U.S., eating locally is getting a little easier. If you're lucky, you can shop at a farmers market, sign up for a produce box from a farmer, or grow your own tomatoes and zucchini in community garden.

For city dwellers in sub-Saharan Africa, eating locally is the norm, not the exception. As many as 40 percent of families there are urban farmers, and they produce fruits and vegetables not just for themselves but for millions of others all within or near city limits.

But survey from the Food and Agriculture Organization, published yesterday, has found that these urban farms are in jeopardy. As Africa's cities double in population over the next few decades, horticultural land will be lost to housing and industry, the report predicts.

The survey which is the first of its kind looked at city farming in 31 countries, where more than half of Africa's urban population lives. The authors say that governments need to integrate urban farming into city planning, or else the cities may lose one of their best sources of food.

For inspiration, Africa can look to China and many countries in Latin America, which have incorporated horticulture into their urban planning since the 1960s. Now more than half of Beijing's vegetable supply comes from the city's own market gardens, the report notes.

In sub-Saharan Africa, urban farming varies a lot country to country. Cameroon, Malawi, and Ghana topped the list, with between 25 and 50 percent of all city households gardening.

In Malawi, 700,000 city dwellers have home gardens to feed their families and earn extra money, while in Kenya's capital of Nairobi, 11,000 familes use sack gardens (burlap or plastic sacks transformed into planters) to fill their own bellies and pay their rent

Some schools in Burundi and the Democratic Republic of Congo even have their own gardening programs, like the ones First Lady Michelle Obama has called for here in the U.S.

But the survey finds that one type of urban farming trumps all others when it came to feeding the most people: "market gardening," or farming on commercially-owned and irrigated lots in cities.

Market gardens are "one of the most productive farming systems in Africa," the report says. They produce almost all leafy vegetables eaten in five of Africa's largest cities, where 22 million people reside.

Market gardens also generate local employment, create urban green belts and can even recycle city waste.

In Mozambique's capital city of Maputo, market gardening employs 13,000 people, while in one region of the DRC, market gardens generate 80,000 tons of produce or 65 percent of the region's supply.

Land set aside for market gardens creates green belts in Mozambique's capital of Maputo.

Land set aside for market gardens creates green belts in Mozambique's capital of Maputo.

Land set aside for market gardens creates green belts in Mozambique's capital of Maputo.

But the FAO says market gardens are the most threatened by Africa's growth spurt since they're not typically regulated or supported by governments. Many of them operate on "fuzzy," or illegal terms, and could lose their right to farm anytime.

Local governments need to nurture and protect these urban gardens, the report says. And they could train farmers in environmentally friendly techniques, such as composting, drip irrigation and choosing better seeds.

Even with these growing pains, however, the success of Africa's urban farming is something city dwellers here in the U.S. can aspire to. Maybe one day 40 percent of New Yorkers will get all their produce from sack gardens hanging out their windows.


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Battle Over Michigan's New Swine Rules Goes Hog Wild

Mark Baker produces cured pork from a type of hybrid swine recently put on Michigan's invasive species list. Baker says complying with the state's new rules will end his business.

Mark Baker produces cured pork from a type of hybrid swine recently put on Michigan's invasive species list. Baker says complying with the state's new rules will end his business.

Mark Baker produces cured pork from a type of hybrid swine recently put on Michigan's invasive species list. Baker says complying with the state's new rules will end his business.

It's estimated that as many as 3,000 wild pigs are on the loose in Michigan. Nationwide, they cause more than $1.8 billion in damage to farms each year. So recently, the state's Department of Natural Resources put Russian boar on the state's invasive species list.

Mark Baker left the military eight years ago to start Baker's Green Acres, a small farm in Marion, Mich., with his wife and kids. Since then, he's put a whole lot of love, money and time into developing tasty charcuterie: salted and cured pork, derived from his hybrids of Russian boar and the heritage breed Mangalitsa.

"My chefs love it," Baker says. "They like the dark red meat, the woody flavor and the glistening fat."

At the moment, Baker is the only farmer raising the swine for human consumption who freely admits he has them.

But with Michigan's new order, Baker's herd was suddenly classified as an illegal invasive species putting him at risk of up to two years in jail and $20,000 in fines. If Baker complies, he will receive no compensation for the loss of his investment.

That, he says, would finish his business. "It's over at that point," he says. "I'd be done."

Ed Golder, public information officer for Michigan's DNR, says "these invasive swine are nothing more than Asian carp with legs. They will come in and devastate a natural ecosystem, and they will pose a serious threat to farms of all sorts."

Wild pig experts say Michigan officials have the right idea trying to cut the Russian boar population before it can spiral out of control. And the agency didn't mean for the order to reach into agriculture; in fact, it specifically states it isn't intended to harm the domestic pork industry in the state.

According to the agency, there are two species of pigs: Sus scrofa, or Russian boar, which are the subject of the order; and Sus domestica domestic pigs, the source of most bacon and ham.

In a ruling, the agency listed eight visual characteristics they argue are common to Russian boar and their hybrids. The wording indicates that a pig with just one of the listed characteristics could potentially be identified as a Russian boar or Russian boar hybrid.

But critics, including Michigan state Sen. Joe Hune, say those guidelines are overly vague. If "the tail is either curly or straight, you can be a felon for owning that hog," Hune says.

A Russian sow on Mark Baker's farm. Four other parties have joined Baker's lawsuit against the Michigan Department of Natural Resources.

A Russian sow on Mark Baker's farm. Four other parties have joined Baker's lawsuit against the Michigan Department of Natural Resources.

A Russian sow on Mark Baker's farm. Four other parties have joined Baker's lawsuit against the Michigan Department of Natural Resources.

Wildlife biologist Shannon Hanna, who is overseeing the agency's order, concedes that "some of the characteristics in the ruling are similar to a domestic hog breed," like light-colored underfur and striped piglets. But, she says, "it is highly unlikely that we would just pull one characteristic out of there."

The agency's use of the word "feral" in the order has also further stoked the debate.

"How can the DNR say that the pigs that are under my control, livin' in my barns how can they say that they are feral?" asks farmer Mark Baker.

So Baker filed suit against the agency, and gathered his kids and some squirming Russian piglets to make his case in a YouTube video. Before it knew it, the DNR found itself in a massive food fight.

But the DNR says it can't comment on Baker's charges because of his lawsuit, so Baker has the stage all to himself and now has about 100,000 hits on his video. Mike Adams, an Arizona-based conservative commentator, produced a podcast charging that "the state of Michigan is now just days away from kicking in the doors of all these farmers, shooting the pigs, and then arresting all of these farmers as felons."

"I wish there was a way to have folks feel more comfortable with this," says Hanna, "and know that we really are just looking at this Russian boar variety of swine, and not looking at the domestic breeds of swine that other folks have been worried about."

Misinformation certainly hasn't helped. Dave Tuxbury, a rancher who raised Russian boar primarily for hunting facilities, had his boar and their piglets killed to comply with the state's order. But a misleading version of his story, reporting that Tuxbury was forced to kill his herd in an armed raid, was spread by both social and traditional media.

DNR never conducted raids forcing farmers to kill their pigs on the spot, and has created a Web page to help combat misinformation. But, as the DNR's Shannon Hanna explains, those who raise the swine "need to, by law, abate a public nuisance. These folks can shoot their own swine, they can harvest it, use it as they want, eat it," she says.

Mark Baker contends he's fond of his swine, just as he's fond of his dogs. "They can't force me to shoot an animal. I won't do it. I refuse to do it," he says.

Baker also says he never expected people to get so riled up over the issue. But, as Michigan state Sen. Darwin Booher says, "if you threaten my livelihood, you threaten feeding my family tonight eventually something is going to happen."

The ultimate resolution to the debate may lie in court. Baker's lawsuit against the Michigan DNR has been joined with four other cases. The combined suit is just getting under way.

Ultimately, if a judge rules in Baker's favor, the Invasive Species Order could be thrown out. As many states in the South have learned the hard way, the results could be devastating. But in a food fight where a state agency is pitted against slow-cooked specialty pork shoulder, you can guess who the fan favorite is.


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Farmers Use YouTube To Share Devastating Impacts Of Drought

Katzcradul posted this image of a parched gulch on her drought-afflicted land in Missouri on YouTube.

Katzcradul posted this image of a parched gulch on her drought-afflicted land in Missouri on YouTube.

As we told you last week, farmers are using Twitter more than ever to keep tabs on each other and, this summer, to commiserate over their drought-afflicted crops.

It should then come as no surprise that plenty of farmers are also active on YouTube, and using it to share intimate views of what's happening in farm country.

Of course there are the now world-famous Peterson Brothers of Kansas, whose June video "I'm Farming and I Grow It" was a runaway sensation, with almost 7 million pageviews.

But farmers elsewhere have been turning to YouTube to share images with more serious themes what the drought looks like, and how it's impacting their livelihoods.

Take a young farmer, who goes by Jack Squat Digger, who posted footage of his cornfields and pasture in east central Indiana. In a July video, he describes his cornfields as "waist-high, tossled, rolled-up, pathetic, bad-looking."

But Jack acknowledges he's better off than others. "I'm going to get a little out of the field better than a lot of guys are going to get," he says. An update in mid-August shows that his corn has matured some, but isn't nearly what he'd hoped or expected for it.

KatzCradle, another active YouTube user, has made videos using still images of her community in Missouri, which she says she was inspired to share after seeing similar images from another farmer in Iowa.

She reports in a dispatch on August 19 that it's so quiet around her home because the corn driers aren't running there's no corn for them to dry. Her own crop of corn is so poor, she says, most of it is just going to have to be plowed under.

She's also alarmed that many of the shelves in her local grocery store are empty and that a local restaurant has had to close.

"The crisis of the drought and rising food prices are not just something I read about in the news," says Kat. "They have come to my town and are impacting my life even as I make this video."


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Thursday, August 30, 2012

On the Farmers Market Frontier, It's Not Just About Profit

On a corner in Washington, D.C., where stores burned during riots 44 years ago, there's now a plaza where farmers sell produce on Saturday mornings.

On a corner in Washington, D.C., where stores burned during riots 44 years ago, there's now a plaza where farmers sell produce on Saturday mornings.

On a corner in Washington, D.C., where stores burned during riots 44 years ago, there's now a plaza where farmers sell produce on Saturday mornings.

Farmers markets are popping up in cities all across the country, and people expect lots of different things from them: Better food, of course, but also economic development and even friendlier neighborhoods.

At its core, though, the farmers market is a business, and it won't survive unless the farmer makes money.

So what's the key to success for these markets?

On a recent weekend, I took a small tour of the urban farmers market universe at least the universe in and around Washington, D.C. My route went from rich neighborhoods to poor ones; from well-established markets to those just getting off the ground.

I start with one of the most well-established markets, run by Jim Crawford of New Morning Farm.

Forty years ago, when Crawford got into organic farming, such markets were rare in Washington. So Crawford had his pick of neighborhoods.

He tried several but settled on one of the wealthier ones, on the northwest side of the city. Every Saturday, he sets up tables and tents in front of a small private school.

Around here, the median household income is $170,000 a year. And Crawford says that does help. "It isn't cut-and-dried that this is only for high-income neighborhoods. It definitely isn't," he says. "On the other hand, you have to have people who can maybe afford to pay a little more than the lowest prices in the supermarket. Because we can't afford to grow stuff and sell it for those prices."

Crawford just raised his tomato prices, because blight is cutting into his supply. He bumped the red organic ones up to $3.20 a pound. The scarcer heirlooms are $4.20 a pound.

And still, they sell, despite the competition. There are regular grocery stores, including a Whole Foods, just a few blocks away.

The Four Mile Run Farmers and Artisans Market sits beside a park in a strip of suburbia that was neglected for a long time.

The Four Mile Run Farmers and Artisans Market sits beside a park in a strip of suburbia that was neglected for a long time.

The Four Mile Run Farmers and Artisans Market sits beside a park in a strip of suburbia that was neglected for a long time.

"I don't pay attention to prices, which I know is really bad," confesses a loyal customer named Isabel. She cares about taste, and when she talks about it, her eyes get bright with enthusiasm. "Some things just taste better, and when you bring them to relatives, they say, 'Where did you get those tomatoes?' "

This market now has lots of company, and markets are moving into new surroundings.

I drive two miles southeast, across Rock Creek Park, which has long been seen as a dividing line in the city between rich and poor, white and black. Here is the neighborhood of Columbia Heights, in the heart of the city. In 1968, after Martin Luther King Jr. was killed, riots and looting broke out here. But over the past few years, Columbia Heights has gone from troubled to trendy.

On the corner where stores burned 44 years ago, there's now a plaza where kids run through fountains and where farmers like Matt Harsh sell produce on Saturday mornings.

"You need two things for a good farmers market: pent-up demand and lots of disposable income," says Harsh. "With all the young people moving into this community, you've got that disposable income coming up, and you got tons of pent-up demand. There's just no place to get stuff."

But there aren't just young people with money here. About a third of the produce that Harsh sells is paid for with money from programs that provide food assistance to low-income families, such as the federal Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) and the Women, Infants and Children (WIC) program. Private donors have stepped in to boost the value of those benefits, when they're used to shop for fruit and vegetables at this market. The ability to use those benefits at this market, in fact, has been one of the keys to its success.

Amy Sahalu is waiting in line to pay for some of Harsh's vegetables. She grew up in Ethiopia, and she comes here partly because it feels a little bit like open-air markets back home. There's only one drawback: "A little bit expensive here," she says. "But it tastes good for me."

This market has turned into a kind of low-key celebration of urban community and country food.

A lot of people would love to see the same thing happen in places that aren't quite so up-and-coming.

So the new farmers market frontier is in places like Shipley Terrace, on the southeastern edge of Washington.

According to the Census Bureau, the median household income in this neighborhood is about $27,000 a year. Two-thirds of the families don't have fathers living with them.

Yet there's a farmers market here: the Ward 8 Farmers Market. And in some ways, it's just like the ones across town.

The customers here are looking for the same thing.

"Fresher produce, locally grown," says Steve Hair.

"So you know where your food is coming from, and I like that," says Carlos Graham.

But there also are ways in which life is different on the farmers market frontier. The making-money part is tougher.

James Smith sells fresh vegetables here. He says there are only enough customers at this market to support one stand like his.

"When you've got two or three people selling the same product, then everybody lose money," he says softly. "Nobody makes money. I drive 80 miles to get here. And if I don't make any money at all, why come here?"

And yet, almost in the next breath, Smith tells me it's more than a business.

"I'm here for the people," he says. "I like the money, but I'm here for the people more than the money. People on this side don't have as much money as other folks do. They need to eat, too. So we need to take care of those, also."

Markets like this usually have volunteers and nonprofits behind them, and they have goals that go way beyond making money.

When John Gloster helped set up the Ward 8 Farmers Market, there was no real grocery store anywhere for miles around. "We have done a great job of making foods available that people perceived previously as being outside of their budget," he says.

At other frontier markets, the healthy food is a way to build a community. For instance, across the Potomac River in Virginia, the Four Mile Run Farmers and Artisans Market sits beside a park in a strip of suburbia that was neglected for a long time.

"The park was a place that nobody wanted to go," says Kevin Beekman, who helped get this market off the ground.

On Sunday mornings, there's now food and usually some music.

Beekman says the vendors here are doing OK, but not great. In other ways, though, the market has been an amazing success. He used to fill a garbage bag with trash every weekend, but now, he says, "nobody even bothers to litter. It's so much more of a pleasure to be in the neighborhood. Folks in the high-rise across the street will come down. They'll say, 'I don't know what this is all about, but I'm happy that this is in my neighborhood.' "

"Are they shopping here?" I ask.

Beekman pauses for just a moment. "They're starting to," he says.


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Two Sides Prepare For Vote On Genetically Modified Labeling In Calif.

California farmer Erik Freese pulls down a healthy ear of corn that has been genetically engineered to produce its own pesticide. He says genetic engineering has helped him to farm more sustainably.

California farmer Erik Freese pulls down a healthy ear of corn that has been genetically engineered to produce its own pesticide. He says genetic engineering has helped him to farm more sustainably.

California farmer Erik Freese pulls down a healthy ear of corn that has been genetically engineered to produce its own pesticide. He says genetic engineering has helped him to farm more sustainably.

This November, voters in California will decide whether the state should require labels on foods with genetically engineered ingredients. If the initiative, known as Proposition 37, passes, manufacturers would have to say somewhere on the front or the back of the food's packaging if the product contains or may contain genetically engineered ingredients.

In the U.S. the vast majority of corn, soybeans, canola and sugar beets are genetically engineered. Those ingredients are in everything from salad dressing to ice cream.

As The Salt reported in May, over hundreds of thousands of Californians signed a petition to get the labeling initiative on the ballot.

So far supporters of the labeling measure have raised $3.4 million. The amount is dwarfed by the nearly $25 million raised by opponents. That includes Monsanto, Campbell's and General Mills, which declined to comment for this story.

Despite the cash disadvantage, recent surveys have the "Label It" camp polling well ahead of the opposition. Still, they're bracing for a possible onslaught of anti-labeling ads between now and Election Day.

For more, listen to the story on All Things Considered.


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Garden Of Youth In Moab, Utah

Watering the corn.

Watering the corn.

The mission of the Youth Garden Project in Moab is to cultivate healthy children, families and communities through educational programs and the profound act of connecting people from seed to table.

The project works to fulfill this mission by organizing the local Farmers' Market, providing a CSA program, inviting the community to Weed N Feeds, hosting fundraisers like Garden Dinners and organizing large community events like Pumpkin Chuckin'.

All money raised goes directly toward the youth programs they run. Kids learn how their food is grown, help their own families grow food and become healthier stewards of their community.

Ann Perri owns a tech services firm in Moab and listens to KUER.


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Introducing Microgreens: Younger, And Maybe More Nutritious, Vegetables

Brendan Davison grows 11 kinds of microgreens, including arugula and basil, at his Good Water Farms in East Hampton, N.Y.

Brendan Davison grows 11 kinds of microgreens, including arugula and basil, at his Good Water Farms in East Hampton, N.Y.

Brendan Davison grows 11 kinds of microgreens, including arugula and basil, at his Good Water Farms in East Hampton, N.Y.

We've come to accept the baby-fication of our vegetables baby spinach, baby lettuce, and baby squash prized for their tenderness and cute size have all staked out territory in the produce section of many a grocery store.

Now, growers (and a few inventive chefs) have decided we need vegetables that are even more juvenile than babies seedlings so small, and so young, they're called microgreens. The advantages of these tiny leaves less than 14 days old are many, their proponents say. They make vibrantly hued garnishes to salads, sandwiches and soups. And whether they're spinach, pea, beet or purple mustard, microgreens are rumored to pack even more nutrients that their adult versions.

Now it seems there's some scientific muster to back that claim. Gene Lester, a researcher with the U.S. Department of Agriculture, and his colleagues at University of Maryland, College Park, have conducted the first scientific analysis of nutrients in microgreens. The results, Lester tells The Salt, "totally knocked me over."

The researchers looked at four groups of vitamins and other phytochemicals including vitamin C, vitamin E, and beta carotene in 25 varieties of microgreens. They found that leaves from almost all of the microgreens had four to six times more nutrients than the mature leaves of the same plant. But there was variation among them red cabbage was highest in vitamin C, for instance, while the green daikon radish microgreens had the most vitamin E.

Kale and beet microgreens.

Kale and beet microgreens.

The findings, which appear in the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, "give us a new insight into plants, because these are little tiny seeds barely exposed to much light at all," Lester says. "And yet those compounds are there ready to go."

Bhimu Patil, a professor of horticulture and director of the Vegetable and Fruit Improvement Center at Texas A&M University, agrees that microgreens may potentially have higher levels of nutrients than mature vegetables. But he says more studies are needed to compare the two side by side. "This is a very good start, but there can be a lot of variation in nutrients depending on where you grow it, when you harvest, and the soil medium," Patil says.

Growers say there's already a market. Brendan Davison recently started up Good Water Farms to cultivate organic microgreens in East Hampton, N.Y. Davison says he always suspected microgreens were exceptionally nutritious, and has doubled his sales since he started selling to chefs in the Hamptons one year ago.

"I deliver the greens in the tray that they're grown in, so I'm bringing the farm to the kitchen," says Davison. "The chefs can cut what they want with scissors right onto the plate, so they're live and fresh."

Davison currently grows in his greenhouse 11 kinds of microgreens, including daikon radish, arugula, cilantro, and basil.

Davison and Lester say microgreens could easily be confused with sprouts, but they're not the same thing. Sprouts are seeds germinated in water just long enough (usually 48 hours) to grow roots, a stem and pale, underdeveloped leaves. Microgreens, on the other hand, need soil and sunlight and at least 7 days to grow before you can harvest them.

This distinction is important for food safety, since sprouts have recently been implicated in a number foodborne illness outbreaks, like the one in Germany and France where more than 50 people died and thousands were sickened after eating fenugreek sprouts contaminated with E. Coli 0104. As Nancy Shute reported earlier this year, the government now recommends against eating sprouts.

Patil says microgreens could also harbor bacteria, depending on how carefully they're packaged. "We're going to have to make sure this is safe," he says.

But everyone seems to be in agreement that anything that gets more phytonutrients into people is a good thing, given that most Americans aren't eating enough fruits and vegetables.

Lester doesn't see microgreens pushing aside hearty, full-grown vegetables, though.

"Microgreens aren't going to replace a big, leafy salad that has lots of fiber and will give you a good sense of satiety," says Lester. "But if you throw a big bunch of microgreens on anything, that's a pretty good shot of vitamins."


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Subtracting Calories May Not Add Years To Life

A rhesus monkey eats watermelon, provided by zookeepers, at the Kamla Nehru Zoological Gardens in India in May 2012.

A rhesus monkey eats watermelon, provided by zookeepers, at the Kamla Nehru Zoological Gardens in India in May 2012.

A rhesus monkey eats watermelon, provided by zookeepers, at the Kamla Nehru Zoological Gardens in India in May 2012.

Scientists have known for decades that lab rats and mice will live far longer than normal if they're fed a super-low-calorie diet, and that's led some people to eat a near-starvation diet in the hopes that it will extend the human life span, too.

But a new study in monkeys suggests they may be disappointed.

The long-awaited results of this study, which started back in 1987, show that rhesus monkeys fed a diet with 30 percent fewer calories than normal did not live unusually long lives.

The monkey study is about as close as it's possible to get to knowing how caloric restriction might affect the life spans of people, says Rafael de Cabo of the National Institute on Aging in Baltimore, noting that humans are so long-lived that a long-term study wouldn't be practical.

He explains that the study involved about 120 monkeys. Some were assigned a regular diet, while the others got 30 percent fewer calories than normal. And if you walk into the lab, he says, it's obvious who is eating the low-calorie meals: "The males are about 25 percent smaller than the control males, so it is an obvious difference in terms of body weights and in terms of overall size of the monkeys."

But what doesn't look different is their life spans. Now that enough animals in each group have died, researchers have been able to do a comparison, which they reported in the journal Nature. It turns out that even though the low-calorie group seemed to enjoy better health, they didn't live longer.

The result seems to dash some hopes that were raised in 2009, when a similar long-term study in monkeys, done in Wisconsin, saw hints that eating less did lead to longer lives.

"Here we have these two studies that reach, you know, broadly different results that differed in relatively minor ways," says Steven Austad, who studies aging at the University of Texas Health Science Center at San Antonio.

The monkeys in the Wisconsin study did eat a different diet for example, their food had far more sugar. And the Wisconsin animals that weren't on the restricted diet were allowed to munch as much as they wanted instead of having food doled out in regular meals, to prevent obesity.

Researchers will try to tease out the significance of these differences. But overall, from these two studies, Austad says one thing is clear: "If dietary restriction increases longevity in monkeys at all, it only does so under very specific conditions. It's not very robust."

There are some people following near-starvation diets in an effort to mimic the dramatic results seen in rodents, but not that many, because most people couldn't face that kind of dietary deprivation.

"Don't feel so bad that you can't get yourself to this phenomenally lean, you might say emaciated, body state," says Austad, "because there's not any evidence that that's really going to help you live a lot longer anyway."

But he says there's still no doubt that exercising and avoiding being overweight or obese will keep you healthier for your normal life span.


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Wednesday, August 29, 2012

Good Cooking In San Francisco, Calif.

Three Squares' Sarah Nelson.

Three Squares' Sarah Nelson.

Sarah Nelson is changing the world one square meal at a time. Her Three Squares mobilizes dozens of volunteers who share their nutrition know-how to help low-income San Francisco-area residents eat healthier.

Volunteer nutritionists and chefs teach adults and children healthy meal planning with recipes ranging from massaged kale salad to sweet potato tacos. The classes, based on a national program called Cooking Matters, are free to participants.

Sarah secures grants, trains volunteers and keeps the program running on a shoestring budget in order to help local residents reduce obesity and increase their health while enjoying delicious, budget-friendly recipes.

Pam Scholtz is a volunteer chef with Three Squares and listens to KQED.


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Unraveling The Mystery Of A Grandmother's Lost Ravioli Recipe

Alice Benner didn't have her grandmother's recipe, only a memory of the dish, so she asked our Lost Recipes project for help.

Alice Benner didn't have her grandmother's recipe, only a memory of the dish, so she asked our Lost Recipes project for help.

Alice Benner didn't have her grandmother's recipe, only a memory of the dish, so she asked our Lost Recipes project for help.

NPR listener Alice Benner says her Italian grandmother made ravioli that was "indescribably delicious."

Benner told us that she's tried to re-create the recipe many times. "The dough the consistency is totally wrong, usually too thick," she writes.

Benner's grandmother used Romano cheese in the filling probably from an Italian deli in Chicago but Benner says when she makes the ravioli, "the Romano cheese I've used never has the same punch. I've all but given up trying to make them."

Unfortunately, Benner didn't have her grandmother's recipe, only a memory of the dish, so she asked All Things Considered's Lost Recipes project for help.

We reached out to Oldways, a nonprofit organization dedicated to preserving traditional cooking, and they suggested we contact an expert on Italian food, Julia della Croce.

Italian food expert Julia della Croce suggested Benner try a Tuscan sheep's cheese, or pecorino Toscano, for the filling.

Italian food expert Julia della Croce suggested Benner try a Tuscan sheep's cheese, or pecorino Toscano, for the filling.

Italian food expert Julia della Croce suggested Benner try a Tuscan sheep's cheese, or pecorino Toscano, for the filling.

Della Croce was intrigued by two ingredients in the filling: the rice and the Romano cheese. And she used her knowledge of regional Italian cooking to unravel the ravioli.

She asked Benner in an email: "Did her grandmother use olive oil or butter? Answer: olive oil. Did she cook with tomato sauce? Answer: Yes. So the olive oil and the tomato sauce put her either in the central or southern part of Italy. But then again, there was the rice, which put her in the northern part of Italy."

Della Croce was getting warmer. Turns out, Benner's family came from Tuscany, and they were shepherds. So della Croce delved into her collection of cookbooks from the Tuscany and Liguria regions and found a historical recipe for spinach and rice ravioli that was nearly identical to the one Benner had described.

But there was still one ingredient to puzzle over: the Romano cheese, or pecorino Romano. "It's a very sharp, very salty, aged sheep's cheese. And I knew that would overpower the other ingredients," says della Croce.

It also wouldn't melt during cooking to help bind the filling together. "It would have to be a younger cheese, which would give it a melting quality, but have a more mellow flavor," she notes.

Della Croce suggested Benner try a Tuscan sheep's cheese, or pecorino Toscano, for the filling, since that's her family's home region. Sure enough Alice Benner had her spinach and rice ravioli, the way Nonna used to make it.

You can find the recipe della Croce adapted for Benner here.


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Boomer Women Prove They Can Dine Out And Still Lose Weight

Older women on a diet don't need to stop eating out; they just may need to make wiser food choices to keep weight off.

Older women on a diet don't need to stop eating out; they just may need to make wiser food choices to keep weight off.

Older women on a diet don't need to stop eating out; they just may need to make wiser food choices to keep weight off.

When women go on a diet, we tend to avoid our favorite restaurants because they are filled with temptations bread, booze and desserts. But are we doomed to sit in our kitchens eating salad alone while everyone else is headed out on the town if we want to keep the weight off?

Take heart, ladies. A new study of women in their 50s and early 60s finds they could eat out and still succeed at long-term weight loss.

"What was really surprising was that eating at restaurants did not predict long-term weight change," lead researcher Bethany Barone Gibbs of the University of Pittsburgh tells us.

The study looked at predictors of weight loss at six months, and then again at four years after dieting began. Early in the dieting phase, eating at home seemed to be most effective. But as the years went by, the women who were successful at weight loss seemed able to bring their healthier eating habits to the restaurant table. They were eating out about two to three times per week, compared with the average American, who eats out four to five times a week.

So what separated the successful dieters from the not so successful? For starters, cutting back on meats and cheeses was important. And eating fewer desserts and sugar-sweetened drinks such as soda or sweetened tea were both important.

But the most powerful predictor was what the women added to their diet. "The strongest effect actually was for fruits and vegetables," says Barone Gibbs.

The study found that four years after starting a diet, the women who added in daily servings of fruits and vegetables did best. The new findings, published in the Journal of the Academy of Nutrition and Dietetics fit with another study published in the same journal last year that examined strategies for losing weight and keeping it off.

So how do women manage to keep down portions and resist all those restaurant temptations? Perhaps they've adopted the slow down and savor approach. As we've reported, women who participated in a mindful eating study were eating about 300 fewer calories per day after incorporating these techniques.


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Tuesday, August 28, 2012

Zucchini You Actually Can't Resist

A basket of zucchini

Get recipes for Garlicky Flash Zucchini, Piquant Zucchini With Sour Cream And Dill and Zucchini Fritters With Dill Tzatziki.

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August 28, 2012

"Ugh," my sister exclaimed one evening as we were making dinner. It was supposed to be an easy poached chicken with a ginger-scallion sauce, eaten with cold cucumber wedges, and we had just discovered that what we had bought at the store was not cucumber, but zucchini. It was an easy mistake to make they were the precise same shade of green. But where the zucchini's skin was mostly smooth, the cucumber's was lumpy. We were not happy.

Let's consider, for a moment, the many faults of zucchini. As a plant, it's prone to vine borers and squash bugs among the most disgusting of all garden pests. Yet despite these weaknesses, it generally manages to be depressingly prolific, and under the leaves there's always one that hides until it's the size of a baseball bat a big, green, cottony-tasting baseball bat. As mentioned, it looks like a lump-free cucumber, which means that where your teeth expected crisp, cool rigor, they find starchy blandness instead. Any kid will tell you that a raw zucchini is tasteless yet somehow sort of slimy. When you cook an overly mature zucchini, the watery flesh breaks up around the pulpy seeds, which you eat mainly so no one can plant them and start the odious cycle all over again.

Actually, as the world's zucchini lovers will tell you, a fresh young zucchini really does have a lovely, subtle flavor green, creamy and faintly sweet. But so often that profile is obscured by the texture problems of all cooked squash. Is it possible to overcome those twin foes, dampness and blandness, in an ordinary kitchen?

I think so. Over the years, I've collected exactly three recipes which transform zucchini into an alluring, mysterious stranger. Last summer, two of them made converts of my kids, who were previously ardent zucchini-phobes. And the third is a way of dealing with adults who think they already know the whole story as far as zucchini is concerned, since they have already tolerated it grilled, julienned into "pasta" and as "carpaccio" without complaint.

One not-so-secret weapon is salt. Our friend the zucchini is 95 percent water. With just a bit of salt (use kosher it's easier to distribute than table salt) and a little time, you can start drawing out the zucchini's vast internal reservoirs. If you don't, the moisture steams out in the pan instead, leaving you with a limp, insipid vegetable, a puddle of warm, zucchini-flavored water and a humid, cranky atmosphere in the kitchen.

If salting zucchini a little is a good thing, is it better to salt it a lot? Definitely not. You only need a little salt half a teaspoon of kosher salt for one medium zucchini, say to start pulling the water out. Use more, and the zucchini will simply taste like zucchini-flavored salt. If you try to rinse out the extra salt, you risk adding back in the water you just tried to get rid of.

If salting zucchini briefly is a good thing, is salting it for a really long time even better? Not necessarily. It depends what you're after. If you'd like soft, pliable shreds of zucchini that offer no resistance, then you can leave them for an hour or more, squeezing the extra juice out at the end. You can then bind the last bits of moisture in some flour or starch and make yourself a nice zucchini fritter, crisp and hot against a cool, garlicky, creamy dip.

If you're after zucchini pieces that still have some backbone, cut them into 1/3-inch batons, salt them for no more than 30 minutes and blot them before cooking. That way, if you choose to launch a furious, all-out assault, cooking it fast and hot in a blazing pan and serving it at once, the zucchini will still have some bite.

I found my most unexpected zucchini conversion experience in The Vegetarian Option, a quintessentially English ode to vegetables by Simon Hopkinson. The zucchini shreds are married with sour cream in a tart pickle puree, and though I don't recommend your children try it, I found myself licking the bowl.

Should these recipes fail to please, don't give up on zucchini right away. There's still zucchini blossoms, zucchini soup and zucchini bread all of which have their seasonal charms. If none of these satisfy, it's possible that zucchini, in the end, is simply not for you. Try a cucumber.


Recipe: Garlicky Flash Zucchini

I originally learned this way to prepare zucchini from Fuchsia Dunlop's marvelous Sichuan book, Land of Plenty (Norton 2005) though there's nothing all that Chinese about it. My own technique has changed a little over the years, but the most important point remains the same: never, ever, ever crowd the pan. If you want to double the recipe, better to make two small batches and devour them each on the spot than end up with waiting-around-getting-soggy zucchini slivers.

Garlicky Flash Zucchini

Makes 2 servings

1 medium zucchini

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 or 2 cloves garlic

1 tablespoon peanut oil (or canola if you can't get peanut)

Slice the zucchini lengthwise into 1/3-inch-thick slices, and then diagonally to make 1/3-inch wide batons. Drop them in a bowl, sprinkle with the kosher salt and toss thoroughly with your fingers. Transfer the zucchini to a colander set over the bowl. Let rest for no more than 30 minutes, then lift out and blot dry with paper towels.

Meanwhile, crush the garlic through a press and set aside.

Heat a big, heavy cast-iron skillet or wok over a high flame. When it's hot enough to make a droplet of water dance, add the oil and swirl it around until it just starts to smoke. Keeping the heat as high as possible, add the blotted zucchini all at once. Spread it out in a single layer and keep it in the blazing-hot pan for 30 seconds or so to encourage some browning.

When you're sure you see brown spots on the underside of the zucchini pieces, add in the garlic and stir-fry continuously with a slotted spoon until most of the zucchini is a mix of bright green skin and creamy flesh with golden-brown spots, and just tender. It shouldn't take more than a minute or two. Serve immediately.


Recipe: Piquant Zucchini With Sour Cream And Dill

This intriguing, soothing blend of smooth sour cream and tart, sweet pickle flavor is the last thing you expect to encounter in a zucchini dish adapted from The Vegetarian Option by Simon Hopkinson (Stewart, Tabori and Chang 2010). Plus, there's something perversely satisfying about flavoring zucchini with a puree made from its doppelganger cousin, the cucumber.

Piquant Zucchini With Sour Cream And Dill

Makes 4 servings

1 1/2 pounds zucchini (about 3 medium), trimmed and coarsely grated

2 tablespoons butter

1 onion, peeled and thinly sliced

Freshly ground white pepper

1/2 cup (scant) roughly chopped dill pickles

2 teaspoons white wine vinegar

1 tablespoon chopped dill, plus extra to garnish

1/2 teaspoon superfine sugar

4 tablespoons sour cream

Sprinkling of paprika, to garnish

Sprinkle the grated zucchini with salt, only to season them, not more. Put them to drain in a colander with a dish underneath. Leave for 1 hour, then, using your hands, squeeze out the excess liquid. Put the zucchini to one side.

Melt the butter in a heavy cooking pot. Add the onion and stew until soft, but not colored. Tip in the zucchini and stir them around with the onion until well mixed. Grind a little pepper over, put on the lid, and cook very gently for about 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Using a blender, puree the dill pickles with the vinegar, dill and sugar.

Remove the lid from the zucchini, turn up the heat and, if necessary, cook off any excess liquid. Add the puree, stir in the sour cream and bring the mixture up to a simmer. Cook for a few more minutes until the assembly is thick and unctuous. Check for seasoning.

Turn into a heated serving dish or divide between individual shallow soup bowls.

Sprinkle with extra chopped dill and generously sprinkle with paprika.


Recipe: Zucchini Fritters With Dill Tzatziki

Since the first day I made these fritters, from The Kitchen Garden Cookbook (DK Publishing 2011), my kids have been clamoring for them. They don't get them often, as we mostly avoid frying in more than a tablespoon or two of oil. But if you do decide to go for it, use a full 1/2-inch of oil and don't try to skimp. You'll need it to drive off the last of the moisture and firm up the fritter.

Zucchini Fritters With Dill Tzatziki

Makes 4 servings (12 small fritters)

1 pound zucchini, coarsely grated

1 teaspoon sea salt and more to season

5 garlic cloves, crushed through a press

4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill

Freshly ground black pepper

Juice of 1/2 lemon to taste

1 cup ricotta cheese

2 large eggs

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

Small handful of fresh basil, chopped

Small handful of flat leaf parsley, chopped

Vegetable oil for frying

Sprinkle the zucchini with salt and leave to drain in a colander for 1 hour. Squeeze dry in a clean tea towel.

While the zucchini is resting, make the tzatziki: Mix half the garlic with the dill, salt, freshly ground pepper and yogurt. Add a squeeze of lemon juice to taste.

In a bowl, whisk together the ricotta cheese, eggs and flour. Add the remaining garlic and the basil and parsley. Season well. Mix in the zucchini.

Fill a frying pan with oil to a depth of 1/2 inch and place over medium heat. When hot, fry 2-tablespoon-sized dollops of the batter, without crowding, for 2 to 3 minutes on each side, until golden brown. Drain the fritters on paper towels and serve hot, with the tzatziki on the side.


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