Showing posts with label soup. Show all posts
Showing posts with label soup. Show all posts

Wednesday, February 6, 2013

Stone Age Stew? Soup Making May Be Older Than We'd Thought

The tradition of making soup is probably at least 25,000 years old, says one archaeologist. Enlarge image i

The tradition of making soup is probably at least 25,000 years old, says one archaeologist.

The tradition of making soup is probably at least 25,000 years old, says one archaeologist.

The tradition of making soup is probably at least 25,000 years old, says one archaeologist.

Soup comes in many variations chicken noodle, creamy tomato, potato and leek, to name a few. But through much of human history, soup was much simpler, requiring nothing more than boiling a haunch of meat or other chunk of food in water to create a warm, nourishing broth.

So who concocted that first bowl of soup?

Most sources state that soup making did not become commonplace until somewhere between 5,000 and 9,000 years ago. The Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America says, for example, "boiling was not a commonly used cooking technique until the invention of waterproof and heatproof containers about five thousand years ago."

That's probably wrong by at least 15,000 years.

It now looks like waterproof and heatproof containers were invented much earlier than previously thought. Harvard University archaeologist Ofer Bar-Yosef and colleagues reported last year in Science on their finding of 20,000-year-old pottery from a cave in China. "When you look at the pots, you can see that they were in a fire," Bar-Yosef says.

Their discovery is possibly the world's oldest-known cookware, but exactly what its users were brewing up isn't certain. Perhaps it was alcohol, or maybe it was soup. Whatever it was, the discovery shows that waterproof, heatproof containers are far older than a mere 5,000 years.

That kind of container, though, isn't even necessary for boiling. An ancient soup maker could have simply dug a pit, lined it with animal skin or gut, filled his "pot" with water and dropped in some hot rocks.

The power of the expanding steam cracks the rocks, a distinct characteristic that first shows up in the archaeological record around 25,000 years ago in Western Europe, says archaeologist John Speth, an emeritus professor of anthropology at the University of Michigan in Ann Arbor.

But Speth says boiling, and soup, could be even older.

He started thinking about ancient boiling after watching an episode of the television show "Survivorman," in which host Les Stroud boils water in a plastic container. "You can boil without using heated stones," Speth realized. All you need is a waterproof container suspended over a fire the water inside keeps the material from burning.

Long-ago cooks could have fashioned such a container from tree bark or the hide of an animal, Speth says. Finding evidence of such boiling, though, would be incredibly difficult because those types of materials usually don't get preserved in the archaeological record.

Speth has argued that Neanderthals, ancient human relatives that lived from around 200,000 to 28,000 years ago, would have needed boiling technology to render fat from animal bones to supplement their diet of lean meat, so that they could have avoided death by protein poisoning.

The kidneys and liver are limited in how much protein they can process in a day when more than that amount is consumed, ammonia or urea levels in the blood can increase, leading to headaches, fatigue and even death. So humans must get more than half their calories from fat and carbohydrates.

If Neanderthals were boiling bones to obtain the fat, they could have drunk the resulting broth, Speth says.

Neanderthals were probably cooking in some way, scientists have concluded. A 2011 study from the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences found evidence of cooked starch grains embedded in 46,000-year-old fossil Neanderthal teeth from Iraq.

"This doesn't prove that they were making soups or stews," Speth says some have suggested the meal would have resembled oatmeal "but I would say it's quite likely."

Putting a date on the world's first bowl of soup is probably impossible. Anthropologists haven't been able to determine for certain when man was first able to control fire, or when cooking itself was invented (though it was likely more than 300,000 years ago, before Homo sapiens first emerged, Harvard primatologist Richard Wrangham says in his book Catching Fire).

And the story is probably different for people in different parts of the world. It appears that pottery was invented in eastern Asia thousands of years before it emerged in western Asia, Bar-Yosef notes. "Maybe boiling wasn't so important because you had bread" in the West to balance out all that protein, he says.

Other parts of the world never had any tradition of boiling food. "A lot of hunter-gatherers didn't use containers at all," Speth says. In places like Tanzania and the Kalahari, there are tribes that didn't boil water until after Europeans arrived.

Speth says, though, it's very likely that humans were concocting soup at least 25,000 years ago in some places. Whether our ancestors were boiling up broth before that well, we'll just have to wait and see what the archaeologists dig up.


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Wednesday, October 31, 2012

The Hard-Boiled Truth About Egg Soups

Get recipes for Stracciatella, Not My Mother's Egg Drop Soup and Double Lemon Avgolemono Soup.

Get recipes for Stracciatella, Not My Mother's Egg Drop Soup and Double Lemon Avgolemono Soup.

Get recipes for Stracciatella, Not My Mother's Egg Drop Soup and Double Lemon Avgolemono Soup.

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October 31, 2012

The chicks arrived five months ago eight gray, blond, black and tawny puffballs no bigger than the eggs they'd been hatched from a day earlier. They had a slavishly devoted audience within minutes and names within 24 hours. Every couple of weeks they doubled in size, and over the summer they ballooned from 2 ounces to 7 pounds as we furiously worked to complete their permanent coop.

About The Author

T. Susan Chang regularly reviews cookbooks for The Boston Globe, NPR.org and the cookbook-indexing website Eat Your Books. She's the author of A Spoonful of Promises: Recipes and Stories From a Well-Tempered Table. For more information, visit her blog, Cookbooks for Dinner.

Every so often, someone would ask us: "What are you going to do with all those eggs?" Eight hens each laying about five days out of seven equals some 40 eggs a week when they're at their busiest, and not molting or sick or too old or too cold to lay. It might sound like a lot for just four people, but we're a family of egg eaters. We all eat eggs for breakfast, and we each have a different favorite: scrambled, poached, steamed or spicy/tomato-y. We regularly make desserts with eggs. We even eat eggs (occasionally egg salad) for lunch. When we're sick, it's always egg soup.

I don't know why I always make egg soup when the kids are home with the sniffles. I suppose it's because it's easy to make with whatever's around the house on a day when I didn't expect to be making somebody else lunch. The steamy broth feels good in stuffy sinuses and noses and the protein from the egg gives you a little energy when you haven't got much to spare. And you can make it when there's no leftover chicken on hand for chicken soup.

My mom used to make egg soup for me, too, when I was sick, but hers was absolutely basic: eggs, scrambled and mixed with a can of chicken broth. As I recall, the whites had a way of adhering gloppily together in a way I'd have found hard to take, when I didn't have the invalid's open-minded attitude about soup.

When I got round to making egg soup for my own kids, I had strong ideas. I felt it should be full of things that taste good even when you aren't sick, such as shiitake mushrooms and caramelized shallots. The first time I made it, I happened to have some stock left over from steaming some chicken with Shaoxing wine and honey the previous night. The final soup was so good that the wine and honey became part of the recipe, as did fish sauce and slivered wonton.

The steamy broth feels good in stuffy sinuses and noses and the protein from the egg gives you a little energy when you haven't got much to spare. And you can make it when there's no leftover chicken on hand for chicken soup.

Of course, the vaguely Southeast Asian-inflected soup that is our house standard is only one among the world's many lovable egg soups. I have a particular weakness for the Mediterranean ones, such as the Greek avgolemono with its tart-yet-soothing melange of lemon, egg, rice and parsley. And while stracciatella (that's "shredded," in Italian), Roman egg drop soup, may be a whole lot thicker than its Eastern cousins what with the Parmesan and the greens and sometimes even semolina flour it's still a comfort and a joy on those chilly fall days.

It was one such day in October when my Barred Rock, One Patch, at last produced her first egg. I stood outside the coop peeking in, wet leaves saturating my ankles and a cold breeze finding its way down my neck as One Patch glacially, stoically went about her business. "I'll probably catch a whopper of a cold," I thought to myself. But when she finally rose from her nest, I went round to the egg door to find the first of her treasure, speckled, brown and warm, and I knew I held an antidote worth any host of ills.

Note: I've scaled these recipes down to one generous bowlful, because they really do make splendid single servings for a soul-boosting lunch at home, or for a sick loved one. But if you'd like to serve more, simply scale up proportionally.


Recipe: Stracciatella

There are perhaps as many versions of this soup as there are cooks. Some have spinach or chard; some hold the semolina. I like this one because it's got a bit of body to it, and the finely chopped parsley yields a pronounced green flavor without swamping the soup in foliage.

Stracciatella

Makes 1 serving

2 cups plus 2 tablespoons chicken stock (homemade if possible)

1 large egg

2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 1/2 tablespoons freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

2 teaspoons semolina flour

Salt to taste

In a small saucepan, bring the 2 cups of chicken stock to a bare simmer.

In a measuring cup with a spout, combine the remaining 2 tablespoons chicken stock, egg, parsley, Parmigiano, semolina and a pinch of salt, whisking vigorously with a fork to break up any semolina lumps.

Gently tip the egg mixture into the simmering broth, whisking the broth constantly. Whisk briskly for fine egg fibers, or more languidly for thicker ones. (If you prefer thinner soup, hold back a bit of the egg). The egg will set within moments. When it does, remove pan from heat immediately. Season to taste and serve piping hot.


Recipe: Not My Mother's Egg Drop Soup

I mean no disrespect to my mom, who could be an outstanding cook. But she was also pragmatic and would never have bothered chopping vegetables for a single-serving soup when a can of broth plus an egg would do. This egg drop soup is more Southeast Asian in flavor than the usual Chinese-restaurant soup. If you happen to have some spare wonton skins on hand, they make terrific, easy noodles that are invariably pleasing to little ones.

Not My Mother's Egg Drop Soup

Makes 1 serving

2 teaspoons vegetable oil

1 medium shallot, sliced into thin rings

2 or 3 shiitake mushroom caps, sliced thin

1 large egg

2 teaspoons Shaoxing cooking wine

1 teaspoon fish sauce

2 cups chicken stock (preferably homemade)

1 or 2 wonton skins, finely sliced into noodles (optional)

Few drops honey, to taste

Few sprigs cilantro, finely chopped

Chopped scallions (optional)

In a small saucepan (just large enough to accommodate the whole single-serving soup), heat teaspoon oil until it just shimmers. Add sliced shallot and cook, gently, over medium heat, until it begins to caramelize in spots (4 or 5 minutes).

Raise heat to high and add the remaining teaspoon of oil and sliced mushrooms. When mushrooms begin to sizzle a little, reduce heat and cover pan to help steam to tenderness, another few minutes.

Meanwhile, whisk egg thoroughly with shaoxing and fish sauce. When mushrooms are tender, add chicken stock and bring to a bare simmer. If using wonton-skin noodles, add now.

Gently tip the egg mixture into the simmering broth, whisking the broth constantly. Whisk briskly for fine egg fibers, or more languidly for thicker ones. Taste for seasoning and add a few drops of honey to taste.

Garnish with chopped cilantro and scallions, if desired. Serve piping hot.


Recipe: Double Lemon Avgolemono Soup

This recipe is adapted from The Olive and The Caper (Workman 2004), a splendid Greek cookbook by Susanna Hoffmann. Avgolemono should be smooth, with no curdled egg threads, so don't reboil the soup once you've stirred in the egg. I like mine sprinkled with chopped chives, though it's perfectly good without.

Double Lemon Avgolemono Soup

Makes 1 serving

2 cups chicken stock, preferably homemade

2 tablespoons uncooked orzo

Salt to taste

1 large egg

1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Freshly ground black pepper for serving

Finely chopped chives (optional)

In a small nonreactive saucepan, bring stock and orzo to a simmer over high heat. Reduce heat and simmer until orzo is tender but not mushy, about 9 minutes. Taste and season with salt to taste.

In a medium bowl, beat egg until frothy. Whisk in lemon juice, then slowly beat in a bit (about 1/2 cup) of hot stock, whisking vigorously.

Remove saucepan from heat and whisk in egg and lemon mixture. Serve immediately, without reboiling, finished with black pepper and chive if desired.


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Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Community Soup In Silver City, Nev.

Cashion Callaway serves the soup.

Cashion Callaway serves the soup.

Cashion Callaway serves the soup.

On the last Friday of each month, my 72-year-old mother, Cashion Callaway, makes a sit-down soup dinner for her community in Silver City.

Young people are invited to come early to help with food preparation and meal set up, which they have done enthusiastically for 5 years now. She takes this opportunity to teach them about cooking and nutrition. Through her example, the kids also learn about commitment and service.

Adults are encouraged to donate the necessary ingredients, and to refrain from using the forum for political purposes.

To me, this is community building at its best.

Malala Elston lives in Silver Spring, Md., and listens to WAMU.


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