Monday, February 4, 2013

Sandwich Monday: Grilled Cheese With Mac N' Cheese

The Mac. Enlarge image i

The Mac.

The Mac.

The Mac.

We live in an age of great marriages: William and Kate, Kim and Kanye (oh, wait, she's still married to this guy), Kim and The Next One. Best of all, though, is "The Mac" from Cheesie's, in Chicago. The sandwich weds a classic Grilled Cheese with Mac N' Cheese, in one easy to absorb package.

Ian: I honestly feel like we're five years away from never again having to use the word "or" in America.

Robert: If they added a layer of animal crackers and poured on chocolate milk they'd have every preschool lunch I ever had.

Mike: Finally, I can enjoy mac n' cheese without getting my hands all gooey.

A look within. Enlarge image i

A look within.

A look within.

A look within.

Mike: It looks like the grilled cheese sandwich is infested.

Ian: I like that it has a grilled cheese and mac n' cheese in there, but Samsung makes a sandwich that also has an MP3 player and an 8-megapixel camera.

Robert: I think this is the sandwich I saw on a wanted poster in Dr. Atkins' office.

Fear. Delicious fear. Enlarge image i

Fear. Delicious fear.

Fear. Delicious fear.

Fear. Delicious fear.

Miles: Should I be nervous that I'm sweating cheese sauce?

Ian: The only cheesier sandwich I've had is the I-Believe-The-Children-Are-The-Future-wich.

Eva: I love mac n' cheese with bread crumbs sprinkled on the top. I think someone read the recipe wrong here.

Robert tastes poetry for the first time. Enlarge image i

Robert tastes poetry for the first time.

Robert tastes poetry for the first time.

Robert tastes poetry for the first time.

Ian: I'm going to feel bad if this isn't a recipe, but a helpless sandwich who'd just fattened up on mac n' cheese to try and survive the winter.

Miles: This may seem like too much to eat at first, but the leftovers prove to be a wonderful makeshift pillow as you slide into a food coma.

[The verdict: delicious. Some complained the texture was too soft. It could benefit from a little crunch, something that could be easily accomplished by just battering and deep frying it.]


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'God Made A Farmer' And The Super Bowl Made Him A Star

It may not have been as dramatic as the stadium blackout that halted play for more than a half-hour, or as extravagant as Beyonce's halftime show. But for many viewers of Super Bowl XLVII, one of the standout moments was a deceptively simple ad for the Dodge Ram called "God Made a Farmer."

While Super Bowl ads often vie to be the hippest or funniest, "God Made a Farmer" took a riskier route: earnestness. The two-minute ad features gorgeous still images from 10 noted photographers, including William Albert Allard, who has long documented the American Midwest; and Kurt Markus, who made his name with his depictions of cowboy life.

But the ad's true power comes from the voice of its narrator, legendary conservative broadcaster Paul Harvey, who died in 2009. Many were moved by Harvey's essay on the virtues of the American farmer, which he delivered to the Future Farmers of America back in 1978. It says:

"God said, 'I need somebody willing to get up before dawn, milk cows, work all day in the fields, milk cows again, eat supper, then go to town and stay past midnight at a meeting of the school board.' So God made a farmer."

Perhaps it's a sign of how far the American food movement has come that Dodge chose this romantic vision of farm life to sell its trucks. As Arizona Diamondbacks pitcher Brandon McCarthy cheekily tweeted, "That convinced me, I'm buying a farmer first thing tomorrow."

Indeed, it wasn't clear just what the ad was selling besides the virtues of farming until the very end, when the Dodge logo appeared.

As Slate quickly noted Sunday night, "God Made a Farmer" was a high-production-value version of a video posted to YouTube in 2011 by Farms.com. (The new ad sparked a spate of praise on that website for both the original and Dodge version.)

Apparently, the ad is part of a Dodge Ram partnership with the National FFA Organization (formerly the Future Farmers of America) aimed at "highlighting and underscoring the importance of farmers in America," according to a statement from Dodge parent company Chrysler. The car company says that every time the ad is watched or shared, Chrysler will make a donation to the National FFA.

Though it earned widespread praise, the ad wasn't without critics. As many in the Twitterverse noted, it extolled an antiquated vision of American farm life that featured almost no Hispanics though the latter made up nearly half of all hired farmworkers in 2010, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

And its focus on family farms struck some viewers as being out of sync with the realities of the modern American food system, which is dominated by industrial agriculture.

Despite these objections, one thing is for sure: For two captivating minutes Sunday night, the values and future of American farming left the sidelines of the popular conversation to dominate a very, very large stage.

So, what did you think of the ad? Share your comments below.


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Small Farmers Aren't Cashing In With Wal-Mart

Wal-Mart claims that 11 percent of the produce in its stores now comes from local farms. Enlarge image i

Wal-Mart claims that 11 percent of the produce in its stores now comes from local farms.

Wal-Mart claims that 11 percent of the produce in its stores now comes from local farms.

Wal-Mart claims that 11 percent of the produce in its stores now comes from local farms.

When Wal-Mart calls, Herman Farris always finds whatever the retailer wants, even if it's yucca root in the dead of winter. Farris is a produce broker in Columbia, Mo., who has been buying for Wal-Mart from auctions and farms since the company began carrying fruits and vegetables in the early 1990s.

During the summer and fall, nearly everything Farris delivers is grown in Missouri. That's Wal-Mart's definition of "local" produce grown and sold in the same state. In winter, it's a bit tougher to source locally.

In 2010, Wal-Mart pledged to double its local produce sales from 4 to 9 percent by 2015, as part of a new sustainability program and a commitment to support small businesses. While the chain has exceeded that goal it says 11 percent of its produce sold nationwide comes from local farms there's little evidence of small farmers benefiting, at least in the Midwest.

Organic vegetable grower Jim Thomas, who grows organic vegetables and sells them at the Columbia farmers market, doesn't know anyone who has sold successfully sold to Wal-Mart.

"They tend to try to force people into lower prices than feasible," he says. "My only concern is that they're willing to pay the price to get the quality that they get from local produce."

Wal-Mart says they try to be as price competitive as possible, and that their local buyers draw up contracts with farmers a year out, laying out fixed prices for set amounts of crops. Ron McCormick, senior director of sustainable agriculture for Wal-Mart's U.S. division, says that the number of small farms supplying the company has grown since 2010. But there are challenges like keeping track of growers, uncertainty about small farms delivering during bad-weather years, and the high costs of strict food safety audits, which are required to supply Wal-Mart.

"There are ways to help the farmer with those costs ... but it's a matter of doing that 100 times over if you're working with small farmers," McCormick said.

Produce broker Herman Farris,  outside a Wal-Mart in Columbia, Mo., was heading to St. Louis to pick up a shipment of bananas for Wal-Mart. Enlarge image i

Produce broker Herman Farris, outside a Wal-Mart in Columbia, Mo., was heading to St. Louis to pick up a shipment of bananas for Wal-Mart.

Produce broker Herman Farris,  outside a Wal-Mart in Columbia, Mo., was heading to St. Louis to pick up a shipment of bananas for Wal-Mart.

Produce broker Herman Farris, outside a Wal-Mart in Columbia, Mo., was heading to St. Louis to pick up a shipment of bananas for Wal-Mart.

Wal-Mart claims its emphasis on local has saved customers over $1 billion while helping farmers. But Wyatt Fraas, of the Center for Rural Affairs in Lyon, Neb., would like to see those benefits and cost savings broken down.

"Unfortunately, there's so little definition and transparency about how that happens that we don't really know if that happens or how that happens," he said.

Of the eight farms highlighted on Wal-Mart's locally grown web site, five are very large farms by the U.S. Department of Agriculture's definition, with annual sales in the millions of dollars.

And then there's the question of volume. The University of Missouri Extension's Jennifer Schutter, who helps farmers sell produce to retailers, says many small farmers in Missouri simply can't grow enough.

"They only have produce for four months out of the year," she says. "Wal-Mart wants produce consistently from the same distributor pretty much all year long."

A few small operations in the Midwest have had success working with Wal-Mart, including Divine Gardens, a tomato grower in western Kansas, and Missouri Vegetable Farm, a 200-acre farm 70 miles south of St. Louis.

Missouri Vegetable Farm was created in 2010 specifically to supply Wal-Mart by the Proffer family, which also owns Proffer Wholesale Produce. Proffer Produce has been a middleman for Wal-Mart since the 1990s, and delivers produce to distribution centers in 13 states. Overall, the company has sales of nearly $60 million a year.

In its shipping facility, as workers in hairnets separated green peppers by quality, size and weight, food safety director Jason Landers said farms, regardless of their size, must adapt their business models to compete in the growing local foods market.

"If they want to continue to succeed, they have to modify their operations," he said.

But LaDonna Redmond, a senior policy associate with the Institute of Agriculture and Trade Policy in Minneapolis, says it's a slippery slope.

"That's the question: Will it actually benefit [farmers], or will the situation turn out to be one where the benefit really is transferred to Wal-Mart?" Redmond says.

She adds that until Wal-Mart builds the cost of producing local food into its prices, few small farms will truly benefit from the retailer's push to source more local food.

Abbie Fentress Swanson reports from Missouri for Harvest Public Media, an agriculture-reporting project involving nine NPR member stations in the Midwest. For more stories about farm and food, check out harvestpublicmedia.org.


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SodaStream Criticized For West Bank Plant

SodaStream is the first Israeli company to advertise in the Super Bowl. The company has dodged controversy in efforts to break open the soft drink market. Its plant in the West Bank has made it a target for an international boycott movement.


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Sunday, February 3, 2013

Winging It: Picking Apart A Super Bowl Staple

This weekend, Super Bowl spreads across the country will almost surely feature chicken wings. Should they be they slathered in buffalo sauce or fried to a crisp? Or both? Dan Pashman, the host of the podcast, The Sporkful, tells Weekend Edition Sunday host Rachel Martin that there are still some misconceptions about wings.


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Saturday, February 2, 2013

After Sandy, Pilgrimages To 'Church Of N.Y. Pizza' On Hold

Totonno's, one of New York's oldest pizzerias, suffered severe damage from flooding caused by Hurricane Sandy. Enlarge image i

Totonno's, one of New York's oldest pizzerias, suffered severe damage from flooding caused by Hurricane Sandy.

Totonno's, one of New York's oldest pizzerias, suffered severe damage from flooding caused by Hurricane Sandy.

Totonno's, one of New York's oldest pizzerias, suffered severe damage from flooding caused by Hurricane Sandy.

It's been more than three months since Hurricane Sandy crashed ashore, and many family-owned businesses in New York and New Jersey are still struggling to get back on their feet.

One of those businesses is Totonno's in Coney Island, where generations of pizza lovers have made the pilgrimage for a slice of New York City history.

Before the storm, you could literally see that history on the walls in the yellowed newspaper clippings and framed photographs of the politicians and celebrities who've eaten there. For now, those photographs are piled on tables in the middle of the restaurant to keep them out of harm's way during construction.

"It's one family, 89 years," says Antoinette Balzano, part of the third generation to own and run Totonno's since it opened in 1924. "It's the oldest pizzeria in the U.S. continuously run by the same family."

The place hasn't changed much; it's got the same tin ceiling and the same nine tables. The restaurant is on Neptune Avenue, a few blocks away from the beach. In all that time, Balzano says, it had never flooded until Sandy, when 4 feet of water rushed in and out. With no flood insurance, Balzano says, it was a struggle to find a contractor she could afford.

"I've had mold company on top of mold company come in, take half the walls out and tell me the job is done," she says.

Eventually, Balzano found a contractor she could trust. He's spent weeks ripping out drywall and installing new electrical wiring. Balzano says the restaurant had barely recovered from the last disaster a major fire in 2009 that forced Totonno's to close for months. But she says the restaurant is determined to bounce back, to the delight of pizza fanatics like Ed Levine.

"There's something about the Totonno's experience that can't be replicated anywhere," Levine says. "Not just in New York, but anywhere in the world."

Levine wrote a book about pizza and is also the founder of the website SeriousEats.com, which has been following Totonno's struggles closely. Levine says it's easy to forget there was a time when pizza was not ubiquitous in America.

"If you go back 100 years, it was still the province of Italian-American immigrants," he says.

Immigrants like Anthony "Totonno" Pero, who was born in Naples, Italy. Pero got his start making pizzas at Lombardi's the famous grocery store-turned-restaurant in Manhattan's Little Italy before leaving to start his own place on Coney Island. Totonno's is one of the restaurants that taught America what pizza should be.

For Balzano, it's more than just the family business.

Related NPR Stories

"He brought a culture here," she says. "Pizza is now part of the American culture, and that was all because of my grandfather."

Balzano's sister, Louise Ciminieri, known as Cookie, is still in charge of the pizza at Totonno's. Levine says that pizza is worth riding the subway all the way to the end of the line.

"Everyone I've sent there has said the same thing," he says. "They feel it; they feel the vibe of that place, and it is the combination of the place, the experience and the pizza.

These days, it seems like you can't throw a rock in New York without hitting a new wood-fired, artisanal, locavore pizza joint. But Balzano doesn't sound concerned about the competition.

"Look, there's wonderful pizza, I'm sure," she says, "but nobody has the name Totonno's. So we'll come back. We'll come back because we have to continue what Grandpa came out here to do."

Balzano hopes Totonno's will reopen in February, and when it does, she says it'll look exactly like it did before the storm. Right down to the pictures on the walls.


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Super Bowl Sunday, A La Sandwich Monday

Seven Layer Bean Dip is a staple of Super Bowl parties, but there's an inherent risk: What if you show up with a seven layer dip, and someone else brings eight layer dip? It's humiliating. Last year, we created this 32 Layer Bean Dip recipe to help you win the Dip Arms Race, once and for all.

The waffle layer requires careful placement and suspension of disbelief. Enlarge image i

The waffle layer requires careful placement and suspension of disbelief.

The waffle layer requires careful placement and suspension of disbelief.

The waffle layer requires careful placement and suspension of disbelief.

It's surprisingly tasty, though there is no tortilla chip long enough to scoop all 32 layers at once. It's worth noting also that it's vegetarian assuming you choose a vegetarian flavor of Hot Pocket but keep in mind, you may be creating a primordial soup from which future animals emerge.

32-Layer Bean Dip

Ingredients:

1 can refried beans

1 red onion

1 tomato

1 avocado

1 Hot Pocket

1/2 cup guacamole

1/4 cup barbecue sauce

1 tablespoon bread crumbs

1/4 cup roasted, salted peanuts

1/4 cup creamed corn

27 tater tots

2 frozen waffles

1/4 cup cheddar cheese, grated

1/4 cup Monterey Jack cheese, grated

1/4 cup mozzarella cheese, grated

1/4 cup taco cheese, grated (I don't know what this is but they had it at the store)

25 Cheez-Its

1/4 cup mashed potatoes

1/4 cup popcorn

8 Funyuns

20 Cheetos

9 potato chips

1/4 cup corn flakes

1 package 7-Layer Dip (this only counts as one layer)

1 tablespoon mayonnaise

1 tablespoon Sriracha

1 scrambled egg

1/4 cup marinara sauce

1 slice toast, toasted

1 tablespoon butter (not a layer, but dry toast would be gross)

1/2 cup macaroni and cheese

a pinch of salt

1/3 cup au gratin potatoes

Instructions:

In the wild, the Hot Pocket Bird makes its nest entirely of Funyuns. Enlarge image i

In the wild, the Hot Pocket Bird makes its nest entirely of Funyuns.

In the wild, the Hot Pocket Bird makes its nest entirely of Funyuns.

In the wild, the Hot Pocket Bird makes its nest entirely of Funyuns.

Choose a large, clear bowl so everyone at the party can see what you're subjecting them to.

1. Prepare each individual ingredient according to its instructions. Tater tots should be baked, Hot Pocket should be microwaved, etc.

2. Spread the refried beans along the bottom of your bowl. After that, alternate between liquid and solid layers as much as possible.

3. Some layers will be uneven. Use leftover cheese to flatten them off, like Cheese Spackle.

4. Reconsider the creamed corn layer and add salsa instead.

5. Every 5 layers or so, use the bottom of a coffee mug to compress down all previous layers. Helpful hint: later, when you use this coffee mug again, try not to think about the 32-Layer Bean Dip or you'll get sick.

Now, for this year's Super Bowl party, we'll be going for 60+ layers, God and the Laws of Physics willing. I definitely want to get kimchi in there, and possibly a layer of Lipitor if I can get the dosage and liability insurance right. If you've got any ideas what we should toss in, please let us know.

Look closely, and you can see Flamin' Hot Cheetos, Mashed Potatoes, and your dark, dark future. Enlarge image i

Look closely, and you can see Flamin' Hot Cheetos, Mashed Potatoes, and your dark, dark future.

Look closely, and you can see Flamin' Hot Cheetos, Mashed Potatoes, and your dark, dark future.

Look closely, and you can see Flamin' Hot Cheetos, Mashed Potatoes, and your dark, dark future.

[A version of this post appeared on npr.org last year.]


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